210 votes
In Mar 2022 I went to the dealer and got a new VW battery for my GTI $151. Not knowing any better, I simply swapped it in the parking lot - I did use a OBD-II device to keep circuits alive while the battery was disconnected. All worked like it should.
good. 2014 vw tdi with 360k on the clock and on the second battery. start/stop works just as fine as when i first got it.
On the other end of the spectrum, the eGolf sucks. It wasn’t good when new and I can’t imagine spending that kind of money to repair it.
I had U350100 as a soft fault in my Tiguan's system for a while about a year ago. I had it throw a hard fault and CEL for the same code twice. I found this to be caused by a fatiguing main battery. Not able to hold a high enough charge constantly to keep all the systems happy. I replaced and coded the replacement battery (000-915-105-CC-DSP) from VW. Made sure to change it's coding to know it was an AGM battery I installed in the Tiguan. Fault has not returned since.
When you change/disconnect the battery you will have the dash light up....just drive it and they clear out once you hit ~10mph.
Tdi Touareg (mid 2000s) battery fits, with posts recessed and in the right place. Dealer price used to be like $115 and they are solid 900cca performers.
My original vw battery made it 8 years and 170k miles, but 10 years is pretty damn good!
I think I went over 60 days without my 2016 Golf R due to a dead battery. A bunch of us had battery issues, I want to say around 2 years, and VW switched production or something. Batteries were out of stock and waiting on new production from Germany.
Since the battery weighs ~40 lbs this isn't really a significant weight change from front to rear so I've no idea if the car handles any differently. Would I recommend this mod? Probably not as it's not cheap and has no real performance advantage and more crazy than anything.
I installed a new battery but now the car won't start or turn over.
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