Always read your manual/mfr suggestions for battery charging and longevity.
For Li-ion you generally should charge no more than 80% (some mfg hide 10% via software like Ford, so you charge to 90%). Also, limit fee cycling these types too, regularly you should DC to about 50% max. Occasionally deep cycling and full charging is fine. Should limit DCFC also.
I had an oem yuasa last like 15 years...replaced it with another yuasa thats over 4 years old now...no issues so
I ran a yuasa in my victory for nine years. It is now on its second life in my lawn tractor- 2 years and still going strong. Battery tenders for the win.
Only thing I've added is a dash cam and all-weather mats. 26k miles with the fuel sender recall completed and a dead battery that is a known issue otherwise no issues.
Varta are a pretty decent brand of battery (although their consumer AAs suck), would not expect it from them.
Change the battery to a bosch one, I had this issue and my car does 600 miles a week for work took it to toyota and they just kept charging it then giving it back to die again the next Monday morning, they tried to say I wasn't driving it enough until they pulled up the service history (2020 with 54k miles) but they still wouldn't agree to replacing the battery
I’m on my 3rd 4Runner, they all came factory with the Panasonic battery. That damn thing wouldn’t quit till at least year 8.
I actually like this change. It's telling me the actual battery charge. What I don't like is at least on my S 8 Ultra is it hits 85%, then starts discharging the battery. The battery gets as low as 81% before charging again. Personally I think this charge / discharge cycle is going to be more harmful long term than just charging to 100% and holding there. So I ended up turning it back off.
Optimas quality fell off hard when they moved manufacturing to Mexico. They've been riding on their previous reputation ever since.
I have a 2019 Subaru outback. The battery dies every two months and I am left stranded.
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