In case anyone else comes across this post, it was the aftermarket thermostat. I managed to get a hold of a mopar one yesterday and the gasket around it was just slightly larger than the aftermarket one and needed a little bit of resistance to seat it. Now my truck is getting up to temperature quickly and working great.
Dude I race mine every other weekend at the track. The thermostat for the coolant did break so that was 2.5k from the dealer. Other than that she's been great to me.
My 4 ton Fujitsu is great but the installed Z5 thermostat is only ever capable on plus or minus 0.5c control, so it will never get as precise or constant as my previous 0.1c Ecobee (which I still use for monitoring).
I narrowed it down to a bad thermostat and bad radiator. I ordered the OEM Mazda parts for $450.00
I replaced the thermostat in my wifes 2014 journey with the V6. It was an easy and straight forward job.
Recently had the exact same issue on a 14 a6 ended up being a DOA t stat I compared the shaft length on the new t start to the 2nd new t stay and sure enough it protruded out about a mm further just enough to not seal properly causing the over cooling after the swap no more issues.
I just bought one off RockAuto. I have to overhaul my entire coolant system and through some searching on this subreddit I saw a lot of people saying the Motorad brand kept failing after a few months. I didn\u2019t want to risk it so I opted for the Mopar thermostat from RockAuto for $35.
Stick with Mopar thermostat. I went off brand and it didn\u2019t work correctly.
Hatte auch schon ein Mahle Thermostat das kurz nach eimbau defekt war. Dannach ein Originales von BMW rein und seit dem wi3der keine Probleme.
I bought a Motorad 7908203 Thermostat and replaced it. Got all the air out of the system after replacing and all seemed good but now, my car only heats up to the correct temp when idle and when I start to drive is when my car starts to cool down closer to C again and doesn’t heat up any further.
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