Any time I see overvoltage faults I replace the alternator. Check the charging voltage and confirm that it's charging higher than 15.0v (it may happen only briefly under some conditions). If it is then unplug the connector from the alternator. That should default it to 14.3v. If it still overcharges then you've confirmed a faulty alternator.
Lucky for us, the Alternator was in fact faulty (it was a Bosch btw) and that the previous owner replaced it a few months prior, meaning it was still under warranty.
Bosch is a great aftermarket option.
Yes, if it was from an OEM supplier to Lexus or the auto industry, such as Denso (1/3 owned by Toyota/Lexus), AC Delco, or Bosch, but I would not buy a mystery brand, especially not a rebuilt, because I don't know how much they get rebuilt or tested.
Changed it for another OEM Bosch new (not reman). Subsequent test showed it was now good.
I got BOSCH AL113M from Adv auto (with a code cost me about 80), then went to tractor supply and got several large washers. I took the pulley off my old alt and put it on the new long-nose alt, stacking washers until it lined up.
Alternator. And unlike prior generations of Bosch alternators you can't replace just the regulator, which is usually what fails. Gotta buy the whole piece.
I bought a Bosch rebuilt alternator from ECStuning and installed it last night. The light however has stayed on.
ended up going with a Bosch remanufactured alternator. Installed it today, went super smooth, charged up the battery as I was installing it, got everything buttoned up and started it up. Battery light still on, voltage is at around 11.9 and dropping. Will randomly jump up to 14.4 volts, no correlation with revving the engine or putting a load on the electrical system.
When I lived in walking distance of a 24-hour AutoZone, there seemed to be more people waiting in line to get their lifetime-warranted DuraLast alternators replaced than for battery replacements.
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