There is a Bosch unit that will fit with the same connectors, but the pulley is usually different. I went to a local auto electric shop and they asked about the current I wanted at what revs and they built a Bosch unit with the appropriate coils and fitted my old pulley. Plug and play, and it's been flawless for 10 years or more.
90 amp Bosch alternator I'm using for my 8V motor. I upgraded the +12V wires to 4AWG from the alternator to the starter and the starter to the battery. Make sure your grounds are good. Battery to frame and to motor. And alternator to motor.
Have a look at Rockauto.com
They have Bosch remans in different sizes.
If you go for a bigger output alt, add a fat cable between the output and the battery via the starter terminal, as the two wires that carry current to the battery via the starter terminal will then be undersized. The cable cost is minimal.
Buy the Bosch it's a direct OEM REPLACEMENT alternator it's probably still going to need programmed via vcds to allow the computer to adapt to the voltage change of the new alternator
In your case I would say just buy a new replacement alt from a name brand like Delco Remy or Bosch, none of this parts store rebuilt junk, you'll just be doing the job over again soon.
Bosch, Valeo, or Denso would be my top choices. Don't get a Chinese one. Shit won't last at all.
I've replaced the alternator Bosch 0124615028 with an identical part number one. Then I replaced the F00M-145-435(or 385 depending on where you look) regulator on it with a AS-PL ARE0075P. Both regulates to the same voltage, 14.2V.
Even brand name remans like Bosch and denso are suspect but generally much less so.
Ive had a few Bosch reman failures lately at my shop as well, although they were for N52s, all bearing noise after about a year.
Symptoms: Flickering lights, and occasional hiccup start. Now battery light is coming on and staying on. When stationary battery tests around 12.5 volts. When running, that drops to 11.7 volts.
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