I did this on my mk1, along with a 90A Bosch alternator (AL49X ?) and a variable voltage regulator to get 14V. Also, I replaced all the tail lights and side markers bulbs with LED bulbs (superbrightleds) . This greatly reduced the amps drawn from the alternator.
I just replaced mine last week! I bought a remanufactured Bosch from FCPEuro. Looked brand new. Also was a pretty easy DIY.
Bosch is the OE manufacturer for motorcraft alternators so if you find a Bosch chealt cheaper, go for it. They're the same minus the motorcraft sticker.
That Bosch VR6 alternator was not a direct fit, but significantly easier than the Delcos other Rover owners commonly used. My method was faster, cheaper and way more reliable.
Get a Bosch or Denso alternator. I'd buy used before one of those brands. Just my preference, I know they sell tons of starters and alternators, but I don't like to do things twice.
Update: There was a direct short in the alternator and when it shorted internally it also took out the 200 amp protection fuse ($115) too for the battery. I got a new Bosch unit and I was happy to find out I did not have to bring it to the nearest dealership and that a local German repair shop were able to do it.
I purchased a 2002 Nissan Quest alternator for my 2002 Xterra. It bolts right up. 120 amps instead of 80 amps.
I am pretty sure that the 120A-Vr is much like all of the later Bosch alts with internal cooling. I just took my 120A 1.8t one apart and it is a PITA.
I figured alternator, so took it to Autozone to scan and everything passed. Then took it to Meineke for them to check and they told me alternator was bad and replaced it. Well my interior lights were still flickering so I took it back and they say seems like the one they installed was defective, so they replace it again with an OEM Bosch and also print me a printout of a bulletin stating that under load lights may flicker and there is no solution.
A friend had a rebuilt bosch unit that he lent me to try and that too doesn't put out any voltage.
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