I got BOSCH AL113M from Adv auto (with a code cost me about 80), then went to tractor supply and got several large washers. I took the pulley off my old alt and put it on the new long-nose alt, stacking washers until it lined up.
So my just-installed today reman Bosch SR33X turns the light off with a very slight blip to 1200rpm.
The tech who replaced my alternator (@10K mi) left his permanent fingerprints on my hood...have to try to buff it out. Apart from the bad alternator documented in another thread (hopefully a one-off), the car has been great (especially in winter) - no leaks, no sunroof issues, buzzing, rattling, vibrations, etc.
I went with the cheaper Bosch unit myself for my M3, and it's been working well for the past 4k miles.
If the belt was melted to the alternator pulley, there was enough friction to melt the rubber. Simple answer, replace the alternator.
Also, my 90A Bosch alternator is about the same size and weight as my old 65A Bosch alternator. Going to a 90A alternator is a great cheap mod.
When I had mine I had to replace the alternator just outside of warranty.
I've had 3 issues with the car: 3. recently - replace alternator (the car just knows I'm about to retire it).
Good thing you got a Bosch instead of the duralast. I had a duralast alternator last about 2 weeks and when I was standing in line at AutoZone to return it and buy a real alternator, there was someone behind me also holding an alternator that lasted two weeks.
So, OK, ended up getting a Bosch Reman from IMC, installed it to find out it was only producing 10Volts @ idle. Took it back out, and installed an Ultima which put out 14Volts @ idle.
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