I have a 2007 CRV with 132,500 The car has been reliable and I'm currently dealing with replacing parts due to the age. Since the last quarter of 2025 I replaced the tensioner/belt,mid pipe, muffler/hardware and alternator.
I had this issue with my 2013 civic. Was replacing the battery about every 12-18 months. All the systems tested fine but the problem was fixed when I finally replaced the alternator.
I had a 2016 accord sport that i just sold with over 200k miles. It has all its original belts,water pump, valves,thermostats, and sensors. The only major thing i changed was the alternator. I did regular maintenance and fluid changes with no issues and of course batteries, brakes, and rotors.
the oem has been good for 5 years now
My alternator just died at 83k miles but otherwise it’s been painless I love the car
I’ve had two D/L Alternators. Each has lasted 3 or 4 years.
Got a remanufactures duralast alternator. Worked for about a week and the died.
Reman alternator quality is in the toilet. Not uncommon to have to warranty an alternator once or twice.
I started having problems like my alternator was going bad again so I replaced it with a duralast alternator part number DL2618-6-11 because I had a lifetime warranty on it and it still didn't fix it so I was thinking it may be a wire shorting out was playing around with the wires that go to the alternator and the plug on the back that goes from the alternator to the PCM and it's started charging again ( I guess it finally connected the electricity) so I replaced the plug on the back of the alternator. It fixed it work for about a month then it happen again check charging system battery light on and battery going dead so I was done. I took it to the Ford place they wanted to replace the other side of the PCM to alternator connector which they did and the alternator so I got another AutoZone lifetime warranty alternator and when they did that they said everything is charging and running like it is supposed to be but your PCM is still throwing the battery light and check charging system because your alternator is charging at 14v and for the PCM to cut the light off it needs to be at 14.6 v. So they wanted to put another alternator on it because they said the alternator from autozone the voltage regulator wouldn't let it go to 14.6 volts. The car runs and drives and doesn't have any problems I just hate the light being on to be honest I have spent hours on the Internet trying to see if it's just these AutoZone alternators that aren't letting it get to the volts the PCM wants or not haven't found anything.
Duralast are shit alternator. See it time and time again people buy them and have more problems afterwards.
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If choosing alternator across many manufacturers, check the part ranking. If your choice is down to two brands, the PartReview part comparisons help.
We compare alternator across these categories:
In March 2026 on PartReview, alternator OEM Honda were overall better than Duralast.
Alternator OEM Honda and Duralast were equally popular according to data in March 2026.
By vote balance, alternator OEM Honda surpassed Duralast:
By number of reviews, alternator Duralast surpassed OEM Honda:
In March 2026, according to PartReview, alternator OEM Honda led more car-specific ratings than Duralast:
OEM Honda are chosen by owners of cars such as: Honda Accord, and others.
Alternator Duralast have not yet taken leading positions in car-specific ratings. You can help by adding a review and specifying your car.
If this comparison didn’t fully answer your question, there are many others on PartReview.
For example, comparisons of alternator OEM Honda with: Denso, Bosch, OEM Toyota, VALEO, OEM Volkswagen, AC DELCO, OEM FORD, OEM Audi, OEM Nissan, Motorcraft.
Also available: comparisons of alternator Duralast with: Denso, Bosch, OEM Toyota, VALEO, OEM Volkswagen, AC DELCO, OEM FORD, OEM Audi, OEM Nissan, Motorcraft.
You can also see who is better among other alternator manufacturers: Bosch or Denso, Denso or Duralast, OEM Toyota or Denso, Bosch or Duralast, Denso or VALEO.
