I'd just get something with a warranty. I've been using Duralast from Autozone for the longest time and haven't had too many issues
Generally, it's best to go with new OEM (Honda) parts. My second choice is aftermarket, new or rebuilt parts. That said, in all my years at wrenching I've had great luck with aftermarket from reputable (NAPA, Duralast, etc) stores with good warranties.
Honda uses great parts. They're expensive though. I had to buy the OEM alternator for my CRV from the dealer (because that was the only one I could get in one day) and it was 700 bucks
I had a Honda Odyssey do this for years. Finally took to Battery Plus. They checked my battery at the time (which was not having issues…yet) which they said was good. On a lark i asked if their device could tell if the alternator was okay. He said yes, did something on the meter, and then showed me on the screen the alternator showed “errors”. I had the alternator replaced and the dead batteries stopped happening.
I have a 19 Accord. The alternator is buried under the intake manifold. It has to come off. That means draining the cooling system.
IMO duralast doesn\u2019t last no where near as long as a good quality Bosch/Denso alternator.
We have a lady with an infinity that comes in once a year to get her duralast alternator replaced.
I bought a Duralast for my ‘99 E55 a few years ago. It didn’t work so I pulled the rectifier off of it, put it on the original one, which put out at 14.2 v back in the car. I returned the Duralast one after I made the old rectifier look like new. The shaft rotation on the Duralast felt gritty, too.
I've had bad luck with aftermarket alternators. Whether I put them on due to customer request, due to price difference or had them come in with issues. Sometimes not charging while still new, or relatively new. Sometimes the charging light on even though it's charging properly.
Duralast = Duramightlast. They're just overpriced cheap rebuilt cores.
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