The MK2 alternator setup has a fatter bolt than the Mk1 alternator uses. I've seen how the thinner bolt eventually wears into the alternator and it doesn't sit straight. The MK2 alternator setup also scoots the alternator closer to the timing belt end of the engine, giving a little more room by the radiator and a shorter shaft means less torque on the bearings. You'll need the MK2 alternator wiring,.. I just bolt it to the starter.
My 93 vw cabriolet is running an oem alternator from the factory.
so far the alternator seams to be working. I cut and then put ends on the red wires and bolted them up. I put my multi meter on one of the two prongs on the clip and grounded the other. then turn the alt motor. the one prong that raised up was my exciter wire.
Also, it seems that it is a 120 amp alternator, so you might want to re-think using the Stock Rabbit harness and, instead, run a bigger cable, since the Rabbit alternators were 60 amps max.
Alternators don't make good battery chargers and if your alternator is on its way out then it may not be able to charge the battery. A fully charged battery measures 12.6V when the car is not started. When it's discharged by 75% then it measures 12.4V. if it's like 12V then it's totally dead. When you start the engine and the alternator turns, at idle you should have at least 13.4 Volts. If it's less than this then try reving the RPM's to like 2000rpm. You now should have at least 13.4V. If you don't then you have a problem either with the regulator or you have a bad diode.
alright guys...i charged the battery and it started right up...put my meter on the batter with it running and it just kept going down in voltage over a 10 min span...so i would say the alt is bad...
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