Only the NEW valeo or original BMW alternators last in these cars.
Both Valeo and Bosch are good brands. I’ve never owned a Mercedes, but both Valeo/Bosch are installed in various BMWs from the factory.
I had to buy a replacement remanufactured alternator (Valeo 120A one) and it was a straight replacement that solved the problem.
I installed the Valeo alternator that I got from FCP Euro and everything works now. The rebuilt Valeo was $200 less expensive than the Valeo that O’Reilly’s had in their computer but couldn’t order themselves. Also it was immaculate. It was a true rebuild and looked brand new in every way. It was $400.
I know my 2005 S60 alternator has a chip in it that is necessary to talk to the car's ECU so be careful buying aftermarket.
Assuming this is a T5 (5cyl) that price is about right for the dealer. I had my alternator replaced under warranty about 2 years ago and the billed price was right about 1350 for just the alt replacement.
I have a 100A alt from a 900 series and it keeps me powered, but barely. And if I have the stereo loud + headlights and fogs and a/c, I get belt squeal.
A bearing went in our original alternator so I replaced it with a Valeo brand and it's pretty loud when it clicks on. It is loud enough that I'm wondering if I got a bad alternator --or is this normal??
It's the typical whirl or whurr noise --it's silent, and then you can hear the whirl or whurr noise when the alternator clicks on. It seems mechanically and electrically fine: It's doing what it should be doing electrically (charging, correct voltage, the battery is happy, the car runs better with this new alternator, etc.). It's just loud.
The alternator was replaced, car died again two weeks later. The Valeo OEM was deemed defective. Back in the shop for a warranty change, still getting voltage fluctuations.
I got this message when the mechanic replaced my alternator with a non-OEM unit that didn't have a voltage regulator.
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