Battery OEM KIA or Duralast
I did just replace the battery in the Trans Am in the fall after 15 years (bought when I picked the car up - I really got my money's worth on that Duralast). It had never been on a tender and that car sees maybe 1500 miles in a big year. But of course it also has virtually zero parasitic drain. I didn't even realize how weak it was progressively getting until I had a no start moving it out of the garage for a wash. It started so much easier on the new batt, I was actually laughing.
I'm about to replace the battery on my 2013 acura tl 3.5L, looking for some advice on choosing between two batteries. The two batteries im looking at are the ACDelco Advantage 24FS or the Duralast ProPower Plus 24F-DL. They are similar in specs, same CCA though the duralast does have about 100 more cranking amps and 17 minutes more of reserve time. The acdelco comes with 18month warranty while the duralast has 2 years.
The other one (duralast one) has a better cca and will perform better in the winter months.
This is really straightforward to do. I replaced mine last September and was concerned about coding or needing to go to the dealer. My 2017 required none of that. Just take the old battery out and put a new one in. You'll have dash lights on afterwards, but all you need to do is turn the wheel all the way to one side and then the other.
I replaced mine in my driveway with a same size AutoZone Duralast Gold. With a coupon, I was out the door for less than $200. The car wintered outdoors at a Vermont ski resort and always started.
I JUST replaced my wife's 2013 Beetle battery with a Duralast from Autozone.
the cars are decent, the customer service at the dealers, hit or miss.
the Vancouver (Coquitlam) dealership i bought my Kia from knew jack squat about my car - I basically just needed them to sell me a car, that I knew more about at the time of sale than they did.
went to a different one, and got a much better experience, they were willing to sit down and talk to you about what the problems were, what options were, etc. So in short, the early EVs (like the one I drive) were kinda iffy depending on your experience, could be great could be terrible, but the classic ioniq is one I would hands down trade in for. The extra cobalt inside the cells means the degradation happens less, it doesn't overheat as quickly, charges reasonably fast, and more efficient than tesla :p
Another is that the OEM Kia battery just sucks…they fail. The fix is to get a new battery that doesn’t suck. Kia will replace the dead one within warranty but you’ll get another dodgy OEM battery. Most people seem to trend towards buying a good AGM aftermarket battery for this.
Don't do Duralast...they don't last.
I usually run the Duralasts just because AutoZone is everywhere and I usually get it replaced twice before the warranty runs out - Phoenix is brutal on batteries.
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