I have seen some test results on ID3 after 100000 km and still everything is quite good on the car. Battery is not damaged like on a cellphone if that is your worry.
I usually get a Duralast Gold from pepboys. Not the cheapest model, but not the super premium one either. Most CCA.
I replaced mine in my 2018 GLE63s with an aftermarket one from Auto Zone (Duralast Platinum). I finally got my start/stop feature back which I had forgotten about and also forgotten how annoying it was to have it ????
My 2014 jetta TDI does the exact same thing as in your video when the battery is dying. I've had the car now for 6 years and it's happened 3 times. If the alternator checks out fine, then I would attempt a new battery.
I did just replace the battery in the Trans Am in the fall after 15 years (bought when I picked the car up - I really got my money's worth on that Duralast). It had never been on a tender and that car sees maybe 1500 miles in a big year. But of course it also has virtually zero parasitic drain. I didn't even realize how weak it was progressively getting until I had a no start moving it out of the garage for a wash. It started so much easier on the new batt, I was actually laughing.
Change it when it can no longer meat a battery test to spec, which has good margin before it starts causing issues, like freaked out ECU or hard starting.
I just preemptively changed my 2007 VW golf battery at 120k...I probably could have gone farther but every now and again I would get a weird code that likely was voltage relative.
VW OEM batteries in modern cars often do that. I was lucky to detect slightly "lazy" cranking in my 2018 GSW 4Mo. Tested and showed %51 SOH even after fully charging it. Lasted 6 years almost to the date.
I've got an essentially new Golf R only about 3 months old and I think my battery is no good. I keep it connected to a battery tender as I dont'drive it often. Even after a week of being connected it never reaches full charge. Also, After I discomnect I put a quick load on it by turning on the lights in order to remove the surface charge from the battery tendder. Prior to putting the load on and just after disconnecting the battery tender the rading is 12.8Votls. After putting the load on by turning on the lights for a minute the voltage reading then drops to 12.28 which seems awfully load. I'm assuming my battery is no good.
the battery in my 2016 died while JUST inside the 36k warranty. the OEM replacement lasted another 30k or so. bought an AGM replacement from Costco, but I don't expect it to last any longer.
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