I need brakes for the front. I'm a whore for big brakes and have a few OEM options to pick from. I was going to use some 312mm from the Golf 4motion but I dug out a MK4 R32 set in need of a rebuild. They're 334mm with twin piston calipers so should look good behind whatever wheels I pick and also stop good.
Switching to a lightly modified 1990 Volvo 240 4-pot Girling caliper allowed me to go to vented front rotors and EBC track oriented pads!
Install was easy, just as planned. This kit is refurbished oe calipers powder coated red. Nothing over the top but they look much better than the bare metal factory calipers. I have driven less than 50 miles so far but initial impression is great. Nice and smooth, they seem to catch a little lower on the pedal but that can be due to how fresh they are and still removing the coating on the rotors. Since the rotors are drilled and slotted there is a little noise but I suspect that will go away after my 80 mile commute tomorrow. Happy to report the pulsating is gone and braking performance is much better now.
Yesterday I took my E30 (325e sedan) to a brake shop...Both sides got the discs a bit warped and brake pads were uneven, so I got them resurfaced since they were still thick and new brake pads were installed. Right side got corrected and free right away but left side was still stuck even with the new brake pads. ...We discovered the caliper slider pins were bended and got them replaced but still the problem persisted. Guys at the shop told me I needed a new caliper on that side since it could be bended and that's why with the new brake pads it gets stuck since they're thicker. I already got a pair of new ones but will replace them tomorrow. Replaced both sides and now they’re working perfectly fine.
these older calipers are notorious for binding up on the ebrake actuator go get a newer pair at the junkyard new design is better.
In the early aughts I scored a set of the Girling 54 calipers from a 16v and my dad and I rebuilt and painted them before installing in my first '84. I didn't upgrade the MC (didn't know better at the time) so the brake pedal travel increased but the braking improved so I kept the set up ... until the next annual MO state vehicle inspection where the car failed for excessive brake pedal travel The 9.4" set up went back on.
I replaced both rear calipers, pads and both electro mechanical parking brake motors on my 2009 Tiguan. Now the yellow 'P' dashboard symbol is always on.
There’s two lines, as the caliper is split into two sections vertically. The top two pistons (inside and outside piston, directly across from eachother) are hooked up to one brake line, and the other line hooks up to the bottom chamber and bottom two pistons. If one brake line fails, you still have some brake pressure (the pair of pistons on the non broken line). Unfortunately, this means that only a pair of the 4 pistons will work with just one brake line (all abs cars). This would make your pads wear at a severe angle, and drastically impact your breaking performance. I’d definitely say just find some rebuild kits for your current calipers. It’s pretty easy and cheap.
A couple weekends ago I first tried to tackle the issue with the brake pedal nearly hitting the floor while driving, I figured it was do to the brakes needing to be bled, so on a weekend I put the car up in the air, proceeded to snap both bleeder screws on the calipers, swap on used ones off my red 16v and bleed the brakes.
After getting vehicle to run under its own power once again, which is fantastic. I have no brakes. I've since gone gone in and torn down Front brakes completely, I've found right side metal line leaking. Also breaks & calibers had froze from lack of operation all these years. I'm Replacing all components for front brakes, except I'm rebuilding the girling calipers because they're practically $200 each and it cost 1/4 to rebuild the caliper.
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