My solution is to always use top of the line brake pads like PFC 11s or raybestos st43 and up.
The other thing I ended up doing is once I really started being able to push the car hard, I installed Porsche 911 993 air deflectors on the lower control arms and that increased airflow was just enough to let me get away with keeping the small brakes. This past weekend I was at VIR and I was getting up to 130 on the straights, even bumping up against the rev limiter in fifth before braking for roller coaster, and the brakes held up fine. That and $30 RockAuto centric rotors.
Rock auto it legit. The power stop bundle is nice. For my accord, I usually go with centric rotors and akebono brake pads.
Just got oem centric with ceramic pads for my 14 GS350.
Rock autos fine enough for brakes, personally I use the centric coated blanks, I run the hawk 5.0 pads, but for a DD I'd recomend factory pads or ceramic.
I previously ran project mu hc+ and Winmax W3 pads separately on the street for daily duty before. All of the brakes i mentioned were on blank rotors with the best rotors, in terms of price and corrosion resistance being the premium centric blank rotors.
Track pads and the basic Centric rotors. Get the Boomba air deflectors that mount on the control arms and remove your dust shields.
I ran G-LOC pads with Castrol SRF with this setup and had my rotors glowing with minimal fade at Gingerman.
Cheap Centric blank rotors, Castrol SRF fluid, and G-LOC track pads will change your mind on brake performance. For dailying, I run Stoptech Sport pads on Centric blank rotors, still with SRF.
I had the same issue with my 2017 SEL-P - went with Centric high carbon rotors and akebono pads. No more issues. The factory pads and rotors are crap. Passengers think I can't modulate brakes in the parking lot as it stops abruptly.
Those should be a very good combo. I ran Centric rotors on my 2012 Gen2 with good results.
I have run Centric, Raybestos and Wagner, maybe the Wagner have lasted slightly longer
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