I had the impression that those discs wouldn’t warp as easy as one piece discs but it looks as I was wrong. VW tried to machine my warped discs with them mounted on the car at one point but they failed so badly that they did not even want to show me the result. After that they messured the runout on new discs on the bench and found them OK. After the discs were mounted on the hubs they were messured again and that one of them had warped. That was the way they found the bad hub. I was quite surprised when I was told that VW did not have any tolerances for the runout on the hubs or the discs. I took for granted that they had quite strict tolerances both on the hubs and the discs. I don’t know if the eight piston caliper and the setup with opposed pistons makes the whole system more sensitive to warpage or not but that has been suggested. And to get this a bit more connected to the thread subject I can add that I have not found any alternative to VW original 365 mm floating discs at all. I was quite surprised to find them cheaper than the one piece 334 mm discs to my Passat W8 though.
Could be the hubs. Mine had an axial throw of 0,02-0,03 mm which I thought wouldn’t affect the discs. I filed a complainment to VW regarding warped discs and they blamed the calipers. Told me one of eight pistons was a bit sluggish. With new calipers and two sets of discs later they found what I had meassured before the complainment, a warped hub. The last pair have not warped after the typical 5000 km mark as before. So at least the floating 365 mm discs are very sensitive regarding straight hubs.
Just did a brake job for my Accord (painted calipers, new Centric Premium rotors, new Akebono Performance pads, new hardware, fluid, etc.).
Plain Centric rotors have served me well, too.
I went with the Centric Rotors and Power Stop Pads, it has been good so far. Had to replace them at 26k miles as well.
Just put Centric rotors with RS-R pads on the front. Great combo, doing the rears when it warms up with the same combination.
I upgraded my front rotors and pads when they needed to be replaced last year. He recommended solid (non drilled/non slotted) rotors to avoid cracking. My braking distance was *much* shorter after the swap.
I went with Centric/Stoptech blanks when I replaced the worn out rotors on my R32. They've been just fine. It was a swap to Hawk HPS pads that made a HUGE difference.
I am happy with the R32 setup so far ( rotors are freaking heavy); but if I was to upgrade it would be either AP or stoptech trophies....
The cause is Sub-Standard, Cheap "Made in China" Rotors.
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