Just pads and rotors is fine. Probably cheap rotors causing the issue. Go OEM Toyota. Almost positive Akebono pads are oem, as well as Advics rotors. Either way these will not warp.
My experience with hundreds of thousands of miles on many different Toyota/Lexus SUV’s is to go with OEM. You shouldn’t have to do anything with the calipers unless one is frozen. You’ll know that for sure when you try to collapse them to put in the new brake pads. Otherwise just new rotors, pads and all hardware (pins, shims, etc)
I did the tundra upgrade 10 years ago, and I'm STILL on the same rotors!!!
I replaced mine around 55k miles. You’ll be so much happier starting fresh, no shuddering, better braking power.
I’ve bought at least 6 cars for family/friends using Cinch and have found them to go above any other standard I’ve come across in 40 yrs in the motor trade. A few yrs back bought my mum a 3 yr old Aygo with 9,000 miles on the clock and it was delivered with new front discs and pads fitted. I queried this with the delivery driver as I wouldn’t have expected them to need replacing at such low mileage. His reply was “yeh, If there’s Any sign of rust on any brake disc then we’ve been told to replace whatever is needed”
i bought used 2011 528i RWD N52 engine with 120k km 5 years ago.
currently sitting at 179k km.
brake discs/pads/fluid
have drilled and slotted rotors for it with pads not installed, only problems are it needs the new brakes installed the current ones are warped
Many heavy 4WD vehicles out there chew through rotors in 25k miles. My LandCruiser goes through them every 20k. And yes, I have checked the thickness and I've tried resurfacing old rotors a couple times but it always resulted in short life and problems.
the 325 rotors are tiny and have pitiful heat capacity
BMW OEM rotors after 4 years and 35k miles. Junk build quality now
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