Last year a shop replaced the rear brake pads and disks but since then handbrake never was like before. They kept telling me it will get better which I believed at the time but it never did. Last month I've passed inspection and they told me that the rear left handbrake was almost out of spec and I'd need to check it out although it passed.
So a month later I've bought a Bosch kit, sliders, pads, grease, toolkit etc and replaced the 1 year old ferodo pads. Now handbrake is like it should be and I'm happy with it but take a look at the old pads...
Both inner side alignment pins (caliper side) are bent.
Last month I've passed inspection and they told me that the rear left handbrake was almost out of spec and I'd need to check it out although it passed. So a month later I've bought a Bosch kit, sliders, pads, grease, toolkit etc and replaced the 1 year old ferodo pads. Now handbrake is like it should be and I'm happy with it but take a look at the old pads...Both inner side alignment pins (caliper side) are bent.
Bosch quiet cast or Zimmerman. Also Bosch blue pads, ceramic if you want clean and semi metallic if you want to stop
bosch quiet cast pads and rotors. changed my life
I purchased some DBA Sport Rotors from Australia which came with, I'm pretty sure Bosch brake pads which were brilliant!
Am avut si eu la un golf 4 tot bosch.. scartaiau la viteza redusa.. cand eram aproape sa opresc.
Le-am schimbat si am pus ate. Din prima zi au mers brici fara nici un scartait.
I ended up picking up Bosch ceramics for the rear + new aftermarket rotors since the stock ones had 1 mm left to min thickness. Have tried not to brake too hard since install couple days ago, but had to a couple times anyway (toronto highway traffic) braking felt just as good as the stock pads.
Ceramic. No dust ????
Just take a little bit longer to warm up to bite... ????
I replaced front pads and rotors on my Tiguan, and afterwards, when going between D <-> R and applying the brakes, the first brake application causes a "clack" on both sides at the front. Pads are Bosch 1633A. spring clips (integral to pads) are seated properly. Pads and rotors were bedded properly. Wheel lug bolts torqued properly. I have the official instructions from VW. I've probably done ~20 brake jobs in my life, mostly Volvos (over half of those were sliding-caliper designs like the Tiguan's). What I tried (with no success): searching and searching and searching forums, only found 2 other people with a similar issue on FCP's Brake Replacement YouTube video measured and compared all latereral dimensions of the pad's plate between new and old, same dimensions re-installed the pads all bolts are torqued properly (caliper carrier 200 Nm; caliper pin bolts 35 Nm) found a Tech Bulletin from VW that mentions there are inner- and outer-specific orientation for the pads. This appears to apply only to the Genuine (labeled TRW) pads, as all 3 Bosch pads are identical in every way that I can discern bought a set of Genuine VW pads (labeled VW), ensured the correct orientation of pads according to the Tech Bulletin, and they still clack. pad backing plate dimensions are the same as the Bosch. Ack! More money! bought a set of genuine caliper carriers (with the thinking that perhaps when I wire-wheeled the old caliper carriers to remove rust, it took off too much material). I didn't install them because I measured all the dimensions that interface with the pads and the new are identical to the old.
I have had a different experience; total junk. 15K miles and they squeal like nobody's business.
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