Ferodo DS2500 are a great compromise pad. They’re a bit more on the race side of things but I never had issues with them being sketchy. Just get a bit of heat into them early to make sure they’re there.
I'm going to tell you ferodo DS 1.11. Street driven on them a ton very easy on rotors. Endurance pad, much better than other things I see mentioned a lot like it blows my mind when people think RSL29s are better. I don't have an M3 but I have a 330ci which has the same brakes, and I've had lots of other cars from Corvettes to Mustangs and camaros. Have run that compound a ton.
I think they work just fine. They squealed a bit even after running them in, it stopped however after the first track day where i properly cooked the brakes.
If you want a bit more performance without loosing cold braking, use ferodo ds performance, they're amazing price-quality wise.
Ferodo DS2500 paired with Zimmerman blank rotors and Motul RBF600 is what I use. The tracks I go to are more technical and not fast so it's great for my use case. I imagine if I went to a track where speeds are above 150Km/H and have long, fast corners, I would need better pads. I'm considered intermediate to advanced and last ran a 1:47 at CTMP DDT with worn Vitour Tempesta Enzo tires. I think I can run low 40s this year. I would not track with stock pads. I overheated my pads and brake fade hit hard. The pads melted and I went off the track and almost over the hill at TMP (Cayuga).
I used DS2500 for my first 2 track days but outgrew them rather quickly on a 2800 lb car. Last time I swapped to DS1.11 and felt much more confident braking deeper into corners with zero fade at my intermediate level. Now I just use DS2500 for the street and canyons.
if you want raw stopping power then Ferodo DS2500's are great.
Recently completed my HPDE and by the end of the day my stock pads were completely gone. Got my front rotors and all my pads replaced soon after that. I went for the Ferodo DS2500 pads. While bedding my pads, I noticed the brake feeling/bite is quite nice when braking at around 50-60% pressure, but once I tried emulating track style braking (i.e hitting brake pedal very hard) I noticed that my brake pedal was vibrating/rattling and also felt some sort of scraping was going on. This would happen even when hitting brakes hard from low speeds of ~30 mph. It's felt entirely on the front brakes. ABS did not engage, so I don't think the vibrations are from that. The obvious visible difference I see is the use of high temp brake lube from the shop.
Is it a reasonable price? No not really. Can you just do it at home in the driveway? If you have a driveway, and it's nice if you have someone around who's done it before who can remind you to do things like properly torque the bolts instead of just "by feel" if you're new to this, or add a little anti-seize on the hub so you can get it off in 5 years, without giving you silly quirky advice like a lot of YouTubers like to do to try and make themselves slightly different. What _should_ you do? My suggestion is call a few local shops (even Ford dealerships if you want). Tell them you've got some rotors and pads (order some standard ones off of Rock Auto) and ask what they would charge to install it. Call 5 places, ignore the most and least expensive ones, and if the remainders pick the one you like the look of (check online reviews, see how long they've been in business, etc). Every mechanic has been changing brakes since they were 12, but you want one who looks like they care about their work. A good mechanic with a 2 post lift should be able to do a Mustang brake job in like 20 minutes if they tried to. They'll actually take about an hour and be careful about it. They'll charge you some "standard" hours regardless of clock time because they need to pay for their shop etc. It's cheaper to do it yourself, but not everyone _wants_ to do it themselves, or trusts themselves to learn something from YouTube videos that their life depends on every day.
Ford Territory! The brakes felt spongey
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