Brake pads STOPTECH or Bendix
I had StopTech brakes on an E92 M3, they were excellent, and I recommend them. Whether or not you need them is another question, and I would only offer that it seems to be a questionable undertaking, from a cost effectiveness perspective. If you need more stopping power for \"spirited street\" driving, the solution for that is easy, and free, slow down. As for your anticipated modest track use, good pads and fluid are all you need. I have 10 years of track experience with several cars, including M3, GT3 and ZO6. Although I have not tracked the Golf R, given its modest power level, and the effectiveness of the OE brakes, I am confident they will be fine for your needs, given proper pads and fluid. The real enemy of sustainable braking is heat. Putting much less money in front cooling ducts would probably help more than bigger brakes. With all that said, I agree that fixed calipers offer a design advantage, but probably one that is beyond any real benefit to 99% of folks on this forum. Finally, being able to change pads by simply popping them out the top of the caliper is cool, and obviously faster. But as for me, I'm not sure the time saved is worth the additional cost. After all, we aren't talking about pit stops in critical competition. So, spend your money as you wish, and have fun, but the bang-for-the-buck score on this one is pretty low.
I had both Wildwood and stoptech when working on my previous sti projects. You can't go wrong with either. I really loved stoptech for cost and easiness of changing pads out.
Adam's front slotted rotors, Stoptech Performance front pads.
After 217k on my 93 Eurovan I am still on my original rotors. I do change pads every 35-40k usually Bendix
I have always followed a similar technique that I found from StopTech but it's cool to see what is happening while doing it. And for anyone doing this, it takes a good long drive to cool down everything before you come to a complete stop. I didn't watch the whole thing but heard the guy touch on it briefly and that is if you have to come to a complete stop do not leave your foot on the brake pedal as you will surely leave a big blotch of pad material in that one spot and then you will get the "warped rotor" feeling as that bit of the rotor will be extra grabby.
oh and i replaced my craptastic wagner thermoquiet pads with bendix pads much better feeling on the pad and the calipers dont seem to get so hot
When I upgraded my brakes I had to measure them myself and give the information to StopTech so they knew what I had.
Have your brakes been broken in properly? It could be that, I replaced the brakes on Face's car and they had the metal on metal sound for abit till they got fully broken in. The creaky type noise could be your wheel bearing.
Yeah, I went with all new pads and rotors on all 4 corners. Bendix OEM replacements in the front and Duramax in the rears (I know I know...but I am poor ) I know some pads are better than others but beyond a certain point pads are pads are pads right?
I put in some new rear brake pads today. The frist brakes I had were Autozone brand. Well, they went on fine on the driver side. On the passenger side It was near impossible to push the piston back far enough to get the pads on. I still needed about another 1/16th of an inch. I even bled brakes a little to make room for the piston compression. Still no luck. So I went back and bought some Bendix that were about 1/16th less in thickness. So, I put them on the passanger side. I had to wrestle with the piston again - that mofo would not budge. Finally I got it. So, I go for a drive with Albany brakes on one side and Bendix on the other. A horrible scaping erupts from the driver's side. The side that went on much easier. Visual inspection looked ok. So I took them off and they were all scraped to heck. Strange, as that was the easy side. So, I put the Bendix pads on that side and everything is fine.
Write your review
Help others - share your experience with this part.