I have always followed a similar technique that I found from StopTech but it's cool to see what is happening while doing it. And for anyone doing this, it takes a good long drive to cool down everything before you come to a complete stop. I didn't watch the whole thing but heard the guy touch on it briefly and that is if you have to come to a complete stop do not leave your foot on the brake pedal as you will surely leave a big blotch of pad material in that one spot and then you will get the "warped rotor" feeling as that bit of the rotor will be extra grabby.
I took your advise and ordered Hawk Ceramic pads, ECS SS lines (Goodrich doesn't make SS lines for a 2010 Jetta), and the SuperBlue fluid.
Have you tried upgrading your pads/brake lines/fluid? I put in Hawk HPS pads, SS lines, and ATE SuperBlue fluid, made a huge difference in my brakes. Firmer pedal feel, much better initial bite, and fade is substantially reduced.
The stock pads chunked like mad upfront because it was a medium speed technical track with little room for brake cooling. You need Hawk HP plus or better for lapping these cars.
Audi dual pot front 11\" brake setup w/ Hawk pads
When I upgraded my brakes I had to measure them myself and give the information to StopTech so they knew what I had.
Only mods: AEM cold air intake, Hawk HP+ brake pads, Bridgestone Potenza RE-11 tires.
i have the complete g60 front brake swap with stainless lines and 22mm master cylinder. i must say it is one of the best mods i have done to improve the truck. huge difference from the slotted rotors and hawk blue pads on my 9.4s and i am just running the oe pads and rotors on the g60 brake setup.
I just put on Hawk HP pads today on drilled & slotted rotors, and did a proper bed-in procedure. When they're heated up, they do stop nicely - however, they do completely lack the initial bite of the OEM brakes
Last year I switched to HP+s and have been unimpressed. imo they are fairly vague. I've also found the dust from the HP+s to be very corrosive.
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