I’ll do the 15k oil change soon with Toyota OEM 0w-16, which is made by M1 but has a much higher moly content than the regular retail M1 oil.
I had oil burning issues even with 10W-40 in my high mileage 325.\nMy mechanic put in LiquiMoly 10W-60, which seems to be much better.
5w-30. I use LiquiMoly Molygen and my experience is good.
My 2009 1.33 likes both 5w30 (or 0w30) and 0w20. Out of the factory they came with 5w30, but toyota later recommended the switch with the 1.33 engine. With normal use and lower speeds 0w20 is best, if you drive a lot at higher rpms than 5w30 would be better (at130kmu/3200rpm 5w30 is smoother).
I use it on my 2016 S5 and it’s wonderful. It’s basically the same as Leichtlauf just with the friction modifier and UV capabilities if you need to spot an oil leak (only in the first 300 or so miles because then the oil gets too dirty to work with the UV). I’ve heard the friction modifier works well in older performance cars due to the increased wear of their engines. Yes it’s technically not approved but you won’t go wrong with it.
I use the Leichtlauf High Tech. Really helped my higher mileage SQ5 with chain rattle.
I personally use Liqui Moly. I've tried Castrol, Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc. and my BMW (E85 Z4M) runs noticeably more smooth with the LiquiMoly.
I’ve never had any issues with 5W40 Liqui Moly Leichtlauf.
Got an oil change @ 94.1k using liqui moly 5w40. Low oil Light popped up at 96.4k. (Added 1 quart). Now I’m at 96.6k. Checked again and the bar is just one level under the “max” Why am I burning oil so quick?
2000s Toyotas. Not really unreliable, but oil burning was an issue on most of these because people did not change the oil on time.
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