I have been consistently using **Motul 10W40** engine oil in my Yamaha R15 V3 for approximately **20,000 kilometers**, with oil changes performed every **3,000 to 3,500 kilometers**. In my experience, **Motul has outperformed Yamalube** in both **overall engine performance and gear shifting smoothness**.
Been using Motul 7100 on my Meteor for about a year now Noticeably smoother shifts especially on longer rides.
For the money, Pennzoil can't be beat, and I say that considering you can usually get it from Napa or Amazon around $7/qt. Idemitsu is also great, but hovers around $8 or $9/qt on Amazon or Napa.
I just hit 250,000 miles on my daily driven '95 M3. I've been using Motul 8100 X-CESS 5w-40 for the past 3 years or so. Prior to that, I was using Castrol Edge Euro 5w-30, which was the BMW factory fill. The Motul often comes out still golden. The Castrol always came out black. Didn't need to do an oil analysis to know which one had fewer metal particles.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W 30 gas to liquid base oil construct $26 for 5 quarts at Walmart or Amazon and is perfect for EJFA engines. People running 0w20 in these fbs and fas and ejs are just destroying their engine. I run the 5W30 pencil Ultra Platinum. I would get the mow tool but it's just really not worth it. I changed my oil every 2,000 mi and the gas to liquid technology. Making your base stock backwards from natural gas gives perfect polymeric structure and their additive package. It's just smoking! I can get three 5 quart bottles for for $75 on subscribe and save from Amazon delivered plus tax. I think the 5W30s The Sweet spot. Unless you're tracking it then I'd go up to the 0w 40 in the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. But you have to realize that the same company that makes the base stock oil out of natural gas also owns the additive package company and they run a a 48 Esther ad pack in this and it's just tremendous oil. If I had higher mileage I'd be running. Probably Valvoline 5W30 restore and protect it. Cleans the ringlands, wrist pins, valve train etc. But since I changed my oil so frequently, I always stay with the pennsville Ultra Platinum. I don't think you can be eat it at $0.16 per ounce it's just bulletproof to thermal oxidation.
2013 Volvo XC 90. Owned since new, only used Penzoil Euro L formulation, all synthetic, 10W-30 and 143K miles later I had to get rid of her because I left the country. No engine issues at all.
Switched to Pennzoil Platinum for my current car and the engine is noticeably quieter (doesn't have the same mild clattery-ness from the valvetrain like with Mobil 1), and it doesn't burn either
Very impressed with Motul tho I had Motul but I got tired spending $70 for 4k mile oil changes.
My 2024 Toyota Rav4 Prime XSE has had 2 used oil analysis tests done at 4k and 8k miles on Pennzoil Platinum 0w-16 and Eneos 0w-16. Both results showed both oils shearing lower and out of grade to a 0w-8 viscosity at 100C in 4k miles.
I used the Motul 10w50 fully synthetic. After running it for a few months I happened to check oil level and I was shocked to find out that 500ml had disappeared. This never happened on the stock Royal Enfield oil, nor with the Motul 5100, so I was not used to keep checking oil level religiously. But now I do.
Then I checked YouTube reviews to see if others report oil evaporation or burning off. And yes lot of youtubers report it, but still recommended it!
How can you recommend an engine oil that evaporates or burns off, even if it gives slightly better performance? It's ridiculous.
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