My 2007 camry is on 22k km (engine 2AZ-AE). No oil burning so far. Always been using penrite 5w-30 while servicing between 5000 to 8000. Only one time had burning smell while running engine on Valvoline 10W-30. Changed the oil at 3k, after that smooth as it was.
Valvoline full syn high mileage and black OEM filter - 113k miles and it doesn’t eat any between changes.
Eh if it’s VW approved then it’s fine. I just use Castrol Euro or Valvoline Euro and haven’t had any issues.
Last oil change I put in Valvoline R&P 5W-30. The final 500 miles before the oil change I added Rislone and it changed the color of the oil from light to dark brown. When I got the car it was using a quart in about 2200-2500 miles.
Been reading user anecdotes about R&P for a while now, and it's like 98% positivity among those who reported oil consumption before using R&P and seeing substantial improvement after.
My Miata isn't currently burning an oil at all, but I put R&P in it and I intend to change it every 3k because it makes me sleep well.
Olieconcurrent.
Heb een ford fiesta, ik koop altijd ford formula F 5w30 geloof ik. Wat in principe gewoon castrol is.
If I used the Valvaline High Mileage Blend oil (red bottle) it would leak less oil.
Might I suggest Valvoline Restore and Protect. It is magic in a bottle and it's anti wear package is off the charts with oil analysis.
Had een Corsa van 2008 met ketting. Deze begon al vrij snel olie te drinken (liter per 3000km).
Toen kreeg ik het advies om deze olie te kopen van een vriend, daar heb ik probleemloos nog 7 jaar mee gereden.
I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.
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