I would never buy a cheapie oil filter for any car, especially a European car. I have always insisted on OEM or Bosch parts for our VW’s.
Depends on year and where you are located. I would never buy a cheap one, since a Bosch is 10 euros, and I'm not willing to take any chances for 5 euros or less, which is the price difference with a ridex or something like that.
I’ve just been purchasing Bosch filters from Halfords or eurocarparts. Oil I just use fully synthetic oil 5w30. I’ve had the car since 60k and it’s about to hit 100k and it’s still smooth as hell.
I would stick to Bosch, Mann & Mahle for filters.
Got a Bosch on Amazon, wasn't changed on my 2 year service. Thank you for sharing, so easy to change.
It’s easy peasy to DIY at every OCI (5k mi or 6 mos whichever comes first, 2014 Mazda6 Touring 6MT). Been doing it, for decades (various makes; at times with an oil boy vacuum fluid extractor). Will be changing mine tomorrow. This time, will try Kirkland 0W20, with a German Hengst oil filter (identical dimensions/specs Made in Japan OEM Mazda PE01-14-302) plus Lubro Moly MoS2 (molybdenum).
Oil service has been done every 5K since then using Liqui Moly Molygen Full Synthetic 5W-40 and Hengst filters.
I have a 2001 Passat 1.8T, on which the oil and filter have been changed every 6 months or 3K mi, whichever came first. The dealer performed the first 4 oil changes, to the 2-year point, then I took over, always with a Bosch or Napa Gold (Wix) filter. Having received the engine sludge notice, I switched from name-brand dinosaur oil to Mobil 1 at my most recent oil change (last month, 23K miles). Although I receive no adverse temperature or indications at the instrument panel, the valve cover SEEMS perhaps to be running a bit hotter than before. What really concerns me is that, when the engine is warmed up, if I stop and idle it for 30 seconds or so, the engine starts making what to my semi-practiced (but new to VWs!) ear sounds perhaps like valve, lash adjuster, or camshaft bearing clatter. The sound emanates from the rear/cylinder 3-4 area, away from belt-driven accessories, etc. Does this sound like an early symptom of sludge, perhaps associated with insufficient oil pressure at idle? Given my history of frequent oil changes and otherwise by-the-book or better maintenance, I would not have expected to be a sludge victim at 23K miles. I suppose I could have just installed a defective brand-new Bosch filter, or I suppose the synthetic oil could have loosened some sludge from my dinosaur days, but these seem like real stretches for an explanation. Any suggestions regarding diagnostics?
since vw started using the synthetic material i am very fond of using oem. ive never seen the synthetic material deteriorate or crush in the housing between oil changes. ive also seen the plastic on those types of hengst filters break apart and that scares me to use.
Happened to me last winter with a Bosch oil filter -- not even an el cheapo aftermarket filter, either. It looked someone had wrung it out like a dishrag.
Write your review
Help others - share your experience with this part.
Voted AGAINST engine oil RAVENOL on the rating page
The brake pads OEM Alfa Romeo got the first review!
The brake caliper OEM BMW got the first review!
The brake pads OEM Infiniti got the first review!
For wiper blades PIAA already 100 reviews.
For battery Energizer already 25 reviews.
In the rating best water pump already 12 brands participate!
In the rating best timing belt already 13 brands participate!
In the rating best head gasket already 3 brands participate!
In the auto rating oil filter for Volkswagen Passat already 5 brands participate!
In the auto rating brake pads for Mazda 5 already 10 brands participate!
In the auto rating tires for Subaru Outback already 50 brands participate!
For cabin filter Fram already 25 reviews.
Voted AGAINST engine oil RED LINE on the rating page
Voted AGAINST engine oil PENNZOIL on the rating page
