Ex: OEM Honda RTA oil filter with a new crush washer is $8 from my dealer
I’d be willing to spend a little more for the OEM oil filter
Might not make a difference, but the Honda oil filters are the best in the business.
I’ve picked up parts for my Acty off the shelf at my local Honda dealer on more than one occasion. They use the same Honda OEM oil filters that can be picked up anywhere. The Actys also share a ton of common parts with US sold Hondas of the same era. I’ve had zero issues finding parts for my Actys and often times the parts are inexpensive
I drive a Honda diesel in the UK. No matter where I look (although I don't look for big drums) oil plus filter is about $100 for me to buy and fit. My village shop would charge less but they wouldn't use the correct grade of oil and probably not a genuine filter.
Just a regular Honda PLM filter. Engine was designed with that filter in mind. Still under warranty as well, rather use oem.
I always use the OEM Honda oil Filter.
I have a 2001 Passat 1.8T, on which the oil and filter have been changed every 6 months or 3K mi, whichever came first. The dealer performed the first 4 oil changes, to the 2-year point, then I took over, always with a Bosch or Napa Gold (Wix) filter. Having received the engine sludge notice, I switched from name-brand dinosaur oil to Mobil 1 at my most recent oil change (last month, 23K miles). Although I receive no adverse temperature or indications at the instrument panel, the valve cover SEEMS perhaps to be running a bit hotter than before. What really concerns me is that, when the engine is warmed up, if I stop and idle it for 30 seconds or so, the engine starts making what to my semi-practiced (but new to VWs!) ear sounds perhaps like valve, lash adjuster, or camshaft bearing clatter. The sound emanates from the rear/cylinder 3-4 area, away from belt-driven accessories, etc. Does this sound like an early symptom of sludge, perhaps associated with insufficient oil pressure at idle? Given my history of frequent oil changes and otherwise by-the-book or better maintenance, I would not have expected to be a sludge victim at 23K miles. I suppose I could have just installed a defective brand-new Bosch filter, or I suppose the synthetic oil could have loosened some sludge from my dinosaur days, but these seem like real stretches for an explanation. Any suggestions regarding diagnostics?
bosch will do for a fester, for the more high performance or up market stuff i use mann or dealer and they aren’t that much more, i just had a 340 gt bmw in that ran the camshafts out of the head after 6k on factors oil and filter, the filter collapsed and sent paper fluff all round the engine so had to replace the cylinder head.
I'm perfect fine running this filter at my shop, Bosch can pay for the new engine and my time to put it in and my customer now has an engine with 300k less miles. Thanks bosh for your crappy quality control.
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