I always go OEM for filters and fluids, brakes. other parts are OK. Cabin air filter I made a mistake and bought on Amazon, it had a weird smell to the filter after letting it run, OEM come packaged in sealed plastic so no manufacturer offgassing. Oil filters I always go OEM. Mainly becahse the last thing you want is a piece of dirt inside a boxed oil filter (no plastic) such as Fram or Purolator. Honda oil filters come wrapped in plastic, inside a box. If you go oem for the oil filter, never stick your finger in the hole to open it, always twist the plastic away, such as stick a screw driver/pin through the top of the filter and peel downwards. At my dealer it's happened where a tech would open it by shoving their finger in the bottom and a tiny tiny piece of plastic would clog one of the oil ports inside the engine block starving the head of oil entirly
Mechanic said he'd replace the oil filter, maybe sometimes that problem is caused by non Honda oil filters. I said ok.
Lo and behold, the CC drifting problem is gone, but fuel efficiency is down to about 24 highway. No limp mode or other problems.
Nothing special about it- it's one of the easiest cars I've changed oil on. As others have said, just stick to a good quality OEM-spec filter and full synth 0w-20 oil. And it does help to replace the drain plug washer every time, or else it has a tendency to have a few small drips on the plastic splash guard by the time you next change the oil.Most modern filters will have the anti- blowback valve that the OEM filters have. I use Bosch premium oil filters and Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 full synthetic.
Yeah P0740 is the writing on the wall that the tc is on the way out. However, I'd try a couple things before throwing in the towel. Firstly, changing all the fluid out and replacing the filter is a start.
my 17-yo, 168k Golf 2.0 gets 5/30 full synthetic and either WIX or Bosch filters.
Youll be fine without a subaru filter, if youre using it long enough that it creates the pressure to go into bypass you need to stop being cheap and replace the filter each change and change more often.
I use Bosch Long Life D3300 oil filters and Rotella T6 5w40, gonna see how Motul 8100 5w40 does in comparison.
Avoid 5w30s most of them sheer to a 20 weight by the end of the change interval if you drive your car like its meant to be.
I've never had issues, and I oil test my car a few times a year.
I just buy a Bosch at Walmart. My Accord has been chugging along fine for past 12 years with those.
As long as the filter works well with synthetic oil. Some really cheap ones dont work well with synthetic like the red Purolator or Microgaurds. Bosch makes a great filter, I've used a few in my cars with store brand synthetic oil and oil stayed brown for a long time.
I've had good experience with the Bosch distance plus filters.
I put in Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30 and a Bosch oil filter from autozone. My problem now is that whenever the oil gets up to operating temperature my oil pressure light goes on and stays on under 2400 rpms, anything above that and I'm good.
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