I used a Fram XG3614 filter. Since cost is the same and there was plenty of room, I will use the next size up XG3600. Since I use this filter on other cars and the lawn tractor, I dont need to worry about different filter PNs either. Capacity bump should help any DIY'er stuck on 0w20 for 10k miles too.
The Fram Ultra is a great filter and the quality is on par with it's competition.
They have synthetic media and wire backing for strength. Where other filters have collapsed from oil pressure (Bosch) the fram ultras hold together and when I tear them down after an oil change seem to still be good for another couple thousand miles.
The whole grippy-textured surface at the top so you can hand tighten and loosen them like you're supposed to is brilliant.
Fram makes GM oil filters. At least they used to. Compare the black (factory) filter or the AC blue filter next to a Fram. Same dimples beneath the grip on the Fram. IIRC there are two companies that make most of the normal oil filters. Even the expensive Mobile 1 filters, though those just use higher micron elements is all. Wix is the other company. Not sure who makes Subaru's but I'm sure it's the same story. Been personally using them for decades, never had an issue. Wife rolled her Honda over 500K using them every 5,000 miles.
With synthetic oil do you need a fancy filter? Since I change them very religiously, I wouldn't think it would matter. I use the FRAM filter (standard size).
i know that look! i actually bought a fram filter when i turbo'd my car, it was a new design from their original design. they used to be exact copies of the vw/hengst and mann. design. it had Plastic "caps" and was essentially fused to the filter media. the new ones however are a strange material that is sewn onto the media with a gauze like inner circle. so i used it and after running the turbo for a few weeks i did a maintence change and noticed the filter was totally collapsed upon itself.
OEM when easily available and Purolator pure one when there not. I'll add to the fram discussion, that at the shop I work at we just got done installing a $3500 engine in a vehicle because the fram filter literally collapsed and blocked the oiling system entirely (that isn't the only engine with a fram I've seen that happen to either).
I use Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter. I may go with the K&N filter from time to time. Quaker State and Fram filters are the last thing I would use. Quaker State conventional at least, nearly ruined my Dad's '68 Plymouth Sport Fury. Fram filters are cheap, using a metal crimp to hold the filter together, this crimp often does not close off the filter leaving a large hole for particulates to pass through freely.
Are you using a cheap generic/fram filter? If so throw it away. Oil change shops use a generic cheapie crapazoidal filter, and uses 10w30 for your car.
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