It's been a year since I changed mine and several thousand kms and I haven't had any warning lights or problems since. I used a Mobil 1 Extended Performance Filter M1C-451.
The OEM filter is not the best in any metric, whether filtration %, efficiency, or longevity. I'd say the OEM A01 filter is regarded as better built too but can be pricier and harder to obtain.
My recommendation would be Fram Ultra XG7317 which is a heavy duty built filter with synthetic media - I happily run this one for two oil changes at 6000 miles before changing.
I use Mobile 1 0w-20 and the top of the line Fram oil filter on my 2013 Highlander.
I'd go with a 'premium' oil filter like a Fram Ultra ($8).
I got my crv at 148k miles, I use Valvoline conventional 5w-20 and a fram extra guard filter. I change my oil around 6k miles.
Have driven from 268,000km's to 388,000km's in the last 5 years. Always full synthetic. I also do my oil once every 6000km , which is early with synthetic, but I want to treat my baby nice. I always get the Fram Full synthetic oil filters - not because they are neccesarily better, but because they have the grip-tape around them, making it easier to remove.
I put the M1-301 on my car Monday instead of an M1-205. It's a really tight fit, especially where it barely clears a tab on the radiator.
OEM when easily available and Purolator pure one when there not. I'll add to the fram discussion, that at the shop I work at we just got done installing a $3500 engine in a vehicle because the fram filter literally collapsed and blocked the oiling system entirely (that isn't the only engine with a fram I've seen that happen to either).
That M1 filter looks like the same media as every other filter I've ever seen on an FSI. The funny looking seal on the ends is useless since it's bathed in oil anyway. The only seal that matters is the one that sits in the housing and since I've never seen it leak I'd say that one is a waste of money
I use Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter. I may go with the K&N filter from time to time. Quaker State and Fram filters are the last thing I would use. Quaker State conventional at least, nearly ruined my Dad's '68 Plymouth Sport Fury. Fram filters are cheap, using a metal crimp to hold the filter together, this crimp often does not close off the filter leaving a large hole for particulates to pass through freely.
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