I’ve always used fram. They get the job done, and never had issues.
At first I stuck with OEM, but mahle OEM filters got pricey and hard to find. Now I'm rocking Fram tough guard synthetic filters with 5w20 high mileage mobile 1 full synthetic oil.
My car seems to like this combo, time will tell.
I do my own. I can get a good STP or Fram filter and 5qt of high mileage oil for $32 at my local autozone, then maybe 20 minutes to do the actual oil change.
Use some seafoam in the oil before the oil change to clean deposits up. I use Rotella T6 5w40 with a high quality fram filter, XG16 if I remember correctly (avoid the orange). High zinc content in the oil is good for the lifters in these engines and the 40 is good for a high mileage engine with a wearing oil pump.
I use fram filters, full synthetic 5w-20, for the last 150k miles. Total cost is like $25 at walmart. I am right at 210k miles now with oil changes EVERY 5k miles.
Runs good, but burns a quart by 5k miles.
I don’t use FRAM filters; they don’t stand up to my pipe wrench tightening technique.
I agree with the 20W50 and good filter stay away from Fram, Bosch and Generic or Store Branded filters as they will give you the blinky oil light at idle controlled by the Canned Sensor on the right side of the head as you look at the engine.
Ends up the Fram 9584 does NOT have the correct size holes. Both are the same and smaller diameter. It will NOT fit over the base without ripping. However, the Fram 9584XL does.
I do tend to be picky about filters though. I like Wix, OEM AC Delco, and Mobil 1. I will avoid Fram like the plague.
No, that's not normal or good.Fram is junk - my mechanic told me a good oil filter would never collapse like that.When it does, it constricts the oil and it's not filtering properly. Go with an OEM filter, or go with Mann.I do oil changes every 15k (as per manufacturer) and I used a Fram once, and it looked like that. Since then, only used Mann or OEM and they look the same when I pulled it out after 15k.Do not cheap out on oil filters.
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