This Yaris basically ruined me WRT engines/serviceability. It has a tiny engine bay yet nothing is in the way of anything else, there's plenty of room to work and you can change the battery or a headlight bulb in a couple minutes. I mean, look how the oil filter is just right there under the 2nd intake runner (and pointing down). That's the starter next to the oil filter, comes out with two bolts.
Original Toyota is the only way to go, try one, you can see and feel the quality difference, they even come with an "o" ring instead of the flat gasket others use and it is PRE-LUBED!
Original Toyota filter, you can see and feel the quality, Toyota uses a pre-lubed o-ring instead of the flat gasket others use
The OEM filter is not the best in any metric, whether filtration %, efficiency, or longevity. I'd say the OEM A01 filter is regarded as better built too but can be pricier and harder to obtain.
My recommendation would be Fram Ultra XG7317 which is a heavy duty built filter with synthetic media - I happily run this one for two oil changes at 6000 miles before changing.
I use Mobile 1 0w-20 and the top of the line Fram oil filter on my 2013 Highlander.
Fram… even used the orange can of death on my old Toyotas without issues.
i know that look! i actually bought a fram filter when i turbo'd my car, it was a new design from their original design. they used to be exact copies of the vw/hengst and mann. design. it had Plastic "caps" and was essentially fused to the filter media. the new ones however are a strange material that is sewn onto the media with a gauze like inner circle. so i used it and after running the turbo for a few weeks i did a maintence change and noticed the filter was totally collapsed upon itself.
OEM when easily available and Purolator pure one when there not. I'll add to the fram discussion, that at the shop I work at we just got done installing a $3500 engine in a vehicle because the fram filter literally collapsed and blocked the oiling system entirely (that isn't the only engine with a fram I've seen that happen to either).
I use Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter. I may go with the K&N filter from time to time. Quaker State and Fram filters are the last thing I would use. Quaker State conventional at least, nearly ruined my Dad's '68 Plymouth Sport Fury. Fram filters are cheap, using a metal crimp to hold the filter together, this crimp often does not close off the filter leaving a large hole for particulates to pass through freely.
Are you using a cheap generic/fram filter? If so throw it away. Oil change shops use a generic cheapie crapazoidal filter, and uses 10w30 for your car.
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