I went from 20w60 to 10w50 and now I don’t get that cold start rattle. If you’re in a super cold part of the world I’d go for a 10w or 5w oil, with a higher 2nd number for good viscosity for an engine @170,xxx kilometres. Also, make sure you run quality oil filters, like Mann filters as the cheaper filters seem to not have very good quality anti-drainback check valves in them.
Buy WIX, never go back.
Got a workshop quote me for engine oil change $550. I do it myself with liquid moly and Mann oil filter cost me $200.
It's fun DIY your car, changing engine oil isn't too difficult , just learn from YouTube.
And it's only takes 30 mins to do it.
I started using WIX/Napa Gold about 2 years ago for all our vehicles, including the German ones (BMW & VW). Have had no issues and after I learned that they were owned by Mann I stopped caring.
Mann
Wix XP for over 100k. I used to work at a NAPA auto care center and we never had issues with the Napa gold’s
Wix probably beats oem. They a great brand.
MANN 811/80 or O.E. oil filter exclusively to maintain oil pressure as designed by Hyundai engineers.
I'll say the only issue I've ever encountered with Wix filters when they come into the shop (dealer) is that they seem more prone to cavitate/collapse in the center of the filter than OEM; that's it. Most of the time they are completely fine. I've yet to see an OEM filter collapse in the same way. I'm not sure if the sidewalls of the pleats are not as stiff for some reason, but yeah. That's my anecdotal experience with them over the years of oil changes.
I have a 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L with a fresh oil change and properly torqued filter. When it gets below zero and I cold start it, my oil filter loosens itself enough to where oil leaks out when starting. I have to crawl underneath and tighten it by hand every time. This has never happened until this year.
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