You don't need a torque wrench, NGK plugs have a crush washer and specify half turn past initial contact. Did my Mazda 3 with no issues. I have a torque wrench and didn't use it.
Harbor Freight has the torque wrench you’d need for $19.99 the Pittsburgh 3/8" drive and a 3/8" drive extension set for $16.99. I’d also grab a magnetic spark plug socket from AutoZone for $14.99 (just go straight for the magnetic one, it makes life way easier).
For the spark plugs themselves, I’d stick with NGK, but make sure it’s the correct spec for your car, since they make different cx5's, some being NA and some being turbo.
As for the "paste," some people put antiseize or dielectric grease on the threads to make future removal easier. I personally skip it because I want zero chance of anything getting into the engine, plus grease can amplify the torque applied with the wrench, which is bad. I’m hoping this is what you mean by paste?
If you do it yourself, the first time costs roughly $100-120 for the tools, and still is about half of what the dealer is quoting. After that, you just pay for the spark plugs themselves for future changes, which brings the cost down to around $50-70 per change since now you'll have the tools.
Get an icon click type torque wrench from harbor freight when they have a sale. And a deep socket set for spark plugs plus dont buy your plugs on Amazon. Go to rockauto. And buy them there buy ngks also rediitt has a rockauto sub and usually people give out 5%off coupons. Also Do not use cheap aftermarket plugs on your car also you'll need a regular ratcheting wrench and extension. Never use torque wrench to loosen plugs it csn destroy the calibration
NGK Laser Iridiums will last longer, but those aren't bad per se.
I had to put a new spark plug in mine after only a few hours of use. It had some China branded in it and I switched to NGK. Also propane creates a hard harder to jump spark gap so you generally have to narrow the gap a tiny bit from typical specs when you’re going to run propane. Since I only run propane I went down a little on the gap and it runs flawlessly. I optimize the gap width by seeing which widths responded best to a sudden surge load without hesitating.
NGK Lazer Iridium Plugs is what I got to replace them in my car. I believe those are what Mazda OEM plugs are, but it’s just cheaper to buy the NGKs from a part store.
I just got a new to me 2016 f150 with 120k. Did air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs (had a misfire) and boots and oil change. I used champion plugs but most reccomend OEM. Got a wix air filter and a fram oil filter. I used full synthetic 5W-20 Valvoline R&P oil. Use rock auto for parts if possible.
Also I like the NGK sparkplugs more than Bosch.
Had some problems with Bosch plugs once.
So Champion sucks, more like Chumpian.
Some of my best vehicle purchases have been trucks with "misfires" or "engine issues" and almost all of those have had goddamn champion plugs in them, or a champion distributor.
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