Torque wrench is unnecessary for plugs. I have several and have never once used them for plugs. 1/4 turn past hand tight is all you need. Good plugs like ngk laser iridium or ruthenium hx will run you less than 40 bucks. A small single use packet of anti seize compound and a 6 pack of your preferred beer. Less than 100 bucks all in and an hour of your time.
NGK plugs have instructions on the package and do not require a torque wrench. I have a torque wrench, but I do not use it for my spark plugs. It's just hand tighten until it makes contact - then turn it however many turns they say with your socket to fully seat it (usually like ½ - ¾ turn or something like that).
You don't need a torque wrench, NGK plugs have a crush washer and specify half turn past initial contact. Did my Mazda 3 with no issues. I have a torque wrench and didn't use it.
Harbor Freight has the torque wrench you’d need for $19.99 the Pittsburgh 3/8" drive and a 3/8" drive extension set for $16.99. I’d also grab a magnetic spark plug socket from AutoZone for $14.99 (just go straight for the magnetic one, it makes life way easier).
For the spark plugs themselves, I’d stick with NGK, but make sure it’s the correct spec for your car, since they make different cx5's, some being NA and some being turbo.
As for the "paste," some people put antiseize or dielectric grease on the threads to make future removal easier. I personally skip it because I want zero chance of anything getting into the engine, plus grease can amplify the torque applied with the wrench, which is bad. I’m hoping this is what you mean by paste?
If you do it yourself, the first time costs roughly $100-120 for the tools, and still is about half of what the dealer is quoting. After that, you just pay for the spark plugs themselves for future changes, which brings the cost down to around $50-70 per change since now you'll have the tools.
Get an icon click type torque wrench from harbor freight when they have a sale. And a deep socket set for spark plugs plus dont buy your plugs on Amazon. Go to rockauto. And buy them there buy ngks also rediitt has a rockauto sub and usually people give out 5%off coupons. Also Do not use cheap aftermarket plugs on your car also you'll need a regular ratcheting wrench and extension. Never use torque wrench to loosen plugs it csn destroy the calibration
NGK Laser Iridiums will last longer, but those aren't bad per se.
I had to put a new spark plug in mine after only a few hours of use. It had some China branded in it and I switched to NGK. Also propane creates a hard harder to jump spark gap so you generally have to narrow the gap a tiny bit from typical specs when you’re going to run propane. Since I only run propane I went down a little on the gap and it runs flawlessly. I optimize the gap width by seeing which widths responded best to a sudden surge load without hesitating.
i got a cheap 80cc kit a while ago and it ran awesome for about 3 months, then i let it sit for almost a year in a garage. Now rusted in some places, but still spins freely, and piston is intact. I just installed a centrifugal clutch and a pull starter, along with a new cdi and new coil, but it just wont start no matter what. I keep pulling and pulling and nothing. I even got a lower temp spark plug for it (NGK B7HS). Fuel is going in, carb seems to be working, i believe im using good enough fuel, tried many different fuel/air mixes... but nothing. Can anyone here please help me figure out what could be wrong? If you need any additional info please ask.
EDIT: after some back and forth with the comments, i decided ill try and disassemble/clean the carburetor, and maybe some other things suggested.
I also realize my formatting isnt the best, but this was one of the first few times i posted in reddit, ever...
And to address me just chucking in new parts suddenly? yeah, not the best move, i realize, but ill try and make it work, and a lesson learned.
Anyway, thank you for the help everyone! I very much appreciate it. Perhaps ill post an update on whether i managed to get it running or not
UPDATE: Today i tried most of what you all suggested and unfortunately, still nothing. I opened the carburetor, as clean as could be.
At this point, my only two suspecrs left is the crankshaft magnet getting misaligned, or im just not getting enough rpm with the pull starter, which is already kind of bogus because it produced a decent spark even when not pulling too fast
I learned that proper, very hard to tell, NGK knock offs even existed after I was bitten by fake ones off Amazon. The porcelain around the center electrode broke off and went through the engine.
I have installed brand new NGK sparkplugs and Bosh ignition coils...but the cylinder 1 misfire does not move or is resolved at all.
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