Mazda skyactiv engines are beyond easy to do. Did it on my 16 Mazda6 in 20 minutes. Probably can be done sooner if the spark plugs are pre-gapped and you're not OCD.
Did 3 of the 4 of them on my wife's CX-9 and it took way longer, due to the turbo parts on top and the engine being set, so far back (vertically challenged and T-Rex arms). Dealer ended up doing the 4th one (driver side plug).
Rock Auto has good deals on the NGK plugs, that are basically the same as the OEM ones.
Torque wrench is unnecessary for plugs. I have several and have never once used them for plugs. 1/4 turn past hand tight is all you need. Good plugs like ngk laser iridium or ruthenium hx will run you less than 40 bucks. A small single use packet of anti seize compound and a 6 pack of your preferred beer. Less than 100 bucks all in and an hour of your time.
NGK plugs have instructions on the package and do not require a torque wrench. I have a torque wrench, but I do not use it for my spark plugs. It's just hand tighten until it makes contact - then turn it however many turns they say with your socket to fully seat it (usually like ½ - ¾ turn or something like that).
You don't need a torque wrench, NGK plugs have a crush washer and specify half turn past initial contact. Did my Mazda 3 with no issues. I have a torque wrench and didn't use it.
Harbor Freight has the torque wrench you’d need for $19.99 the Pittsburgh 3/8" drive and a 3/8" drive extension set for $16.99. I’d also grab a magnetic spark plug socket from AutoZone for $14.99 (just go straight for the magnetic one, it makes life way easier).
For the spark plugs themselves, I’d stick with NGK, but make sure it’s the correct spec for your car, since they make different cx5's, some being NA and some being turbo.
As for the "paste," some people put antiseize or dielectric grease on the threads to make future removal easier. I personally skip it because I want zero chance of anything getting into the engine, plus grease can amplify the torque applied with the wrench, which is bad. I’m hoping this is what you mean by paste?
If you do it yourself, the first time costs roughly $100-120 for the tools, and still is about half of what the dealer is quoting. After that, you just pay for the spark plugs themselves for future changes, which brings the cost down to around $50-70 per change since now you'll have the tools.
Get an icon click type torque wrench from harbor freight when they have a sale. And a deep socket set for spark plugs plus dont buy your plugs on Amazon. Go to rockauto. And buy them there buy ngks also rediitt has a rockauto sub and usually people give out 5%off coupons. Also Do not use cheap aftermarket plugs on your car also you'll need a regular ratcheting wrench and extension. Never use torque wrench to loosen plugs it csn destroy the calibration
NGK Laser Iridiums will last longer, but those aren't bad per se.
Went with NGK spark plugs that was bundled with some generic wires and coils, not ideal but it’s all I could afford at the moment
Ngks are fine but be careful with them. I myself ran these and changed them at 10k intervals. I met someone at a car meet who recommended 5k intervals w these n I didn’t understand till my engine was gone. They can foul up and break inside the cylinder. Granted in my case it was my fault but it’s happened a few times w other ppl.
I just got some fakes with the EAC logo on the box and the accurate Japan stamp with the line under the p. I could tell they were fake just by looking at the poorly machined threads, let alone the crooked ground electrode that looks like it is made out of casted tin lol.
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