Read about the recall, had dealer swap thermostat. Had a reason to leave right away with outside temp at 38 F. Warm air by the stop sign.
I had the same issue, in the end, the thermostat was faulty, and the dealership replaced it for free. I didn’t have any warning light on the dashboard either.
Mahle is the OE replacement for the thermostat, the Chrysler logo is on the part but sanded down. Autozone sells them with PT# TI23695 I just replaced mine last weekend.
I had the same issue on my 09 Mazda 2.3L. Everything looked good on the dash, but the thermostat let too much coolant through, over cooling the engine. My CEL came on, I reset it, and it reappeared. Long drives on the freeway in cool weather was the scenario that triggered it, as the radiator is very effective at speed, and the engine isn't working hard cruising on level ground at freeway speeds. I bought the thermostat "cover" (it's the plastic assembly with the thermostat integrated in it-- PN LF70-15-170) for $57 from Amazon and installed it last November and the CEL has not reappeared.
If you want hotter with a thermostat the exact same shape as the genuine VW version, get the Mahle TX1392D. 92 C opening temperature. Keeps the engine warmer and you get a little better fuel economy.
I’ve been using Germany-made Mahle thermostat for years. Now it throws a code that the heater doesn’t work (so it won’t open electrically, but mechanically it is working just fine), but no leaks.
My 2021 Mazda3 Turbo has classic thermostat failure symptoms: \n\n- Erratic warm-up (sometimes stuck cold, sometimes near overheating). \n- Upper radiator hose stays lukewarm even after 20+ mins of driving (revved to 3K RPM to test). \n- Housing burns hot, but hose never gets scalding\u2014clear sign of a stuck thermostat.
car in winter cant even reach optimal temperature in idle, reaches optimal temperature only uphills on RPMS higher thatn 2500
Thermostat failed multiple times
I just had the code P0126 on my 2021 mazda cx-30 with 20,000 miles. Seems to be the same issue
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