vs
Thermostat MISHIMOTO or OEM BMW
I was instructed by a friend who had some of m47 and m57, to buy thermostat only original from bmw, because everything else doesn't work as long or good.
Pros: works long and good
Cons: other brands don't work
Vehicle:
BMW
I have a mishimoto thermostat with their radiator setup. It does kick on the fans on at a lower temp range than when the stock one would which is good. I had issues running hot on the stock rad/thermostat and haven't had any issues since.
Pros: fans kick on sooner, no overheating issues
Vehicle:
Honda S2000
The replacement thermostat came from BMW. No problems this time.
Pros: no problems
Vehicle:
BMW
I replaced the thermostat with a Mishimoto thermostat and vaccume filled the coolant. I did a 30 min test drive in the 95+ weather with the AC cranked. Never went past the 7th dot.
Pros: stable engine temperature
Vehicle:
Nissan
I wanted to upgrade from plastic and got an aluminum Mishimoto thermostat, but i didn’t notice that it opens at 180°. Can i get away with the 180° thermostat, or should i ship it back and re-order a different, higher rated thermostat?
Pros: aluminum, upgrade from plastic
Cons: wrong opening temperature
Vehicle:
Jeep Wrangler
mishimoto changed the design of the thermostat when I purchased and you will need shorter bolts they are not provided
Cons: design change, bolts not provided
I replaced the t-stat with a genuine part and again no luck.
Cons: did not fix issue
Vehicle:
BMW
I got a bad mishimoto thermostat with similar results.
Cons: faulty unit
Vehicle:
Subaru
Changed to genuine thermostat, no change. Needle tends to dip on higher load highway driving, but only occasionally. Obd temp is between 77C-88C.
Cons: no change in performance, needle dips on load
Vehicle:
BMW
I bought and installed a Mishimoto thermostat that activates at 68°C, while my vehicle OEM (Original factory) thermostat activates at 88°C and fully opens at 100°C. With the Mishimoto thermostat (68°C), the coolant temperature basically stays 71 ~ 74°C when driving, from OBDII reading. Short Term Fuel Trim was OK, between -10% and +10%. I checked the spark plugs after one week, they were fine.
However, after three weeks (last Saturday to be precise), the Check Engine Light was on when I started the vehicle, and OBDII gave Code P0128. I searched the code online and got: coolant temperature fails to reach the proper operating temperature, or Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature. My thinking was the engine finally realized that the temperature was below the operating temperature, due to the Mishimoto thermostat.
Cons: caused CEL P0128, engine below operating temp
Vehicle:
Mitsubishi Galant
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