What I did notice is that the brakes performed better when doing repeated stops which is related to their heat dissispation.
The 337/TT brakes will put a huge smile on your face. Of course, you should also make sure you have hi perf tires as well, or they will overpower your tires. It's a very, very wise upgrade. Get them with HPS pads and SS lines.
I would recommend buying a set of Brembo slotted A8 rotors or my favorote Ate Powerdiscs.
I would recommend the TT brakes. Choose plain rotors if you are wary of drilled or slotted rotors, but those brakes with hawk pads (or something more appressive) should be fine. The added lever arm does help substantially, as well as the larger piston over stock.
I'm running the Audi TT setup with a 16 inch wheel. 312mm Brembo rotors. I think that rotor size is the largest you can fit with a 16 inch rim.
I run audio TT front rotors (12.3 instead of 11.3), aggressive pads (ferodo DS2500) and racing brake fluid (motul rbf 600) and even on the track where you have to do some high speed stops (125-45) I havent really seen much brake fade.
No fade at all (overheating is no longer an issue). For the first time the brake pedal feels like the gas pedal. You just touch it and it slows down a bit, you gently step on it and it slows you down, you press harder and it slows you even faster, etc. Finally, believe it or not, ABS kicks in rarely!! (not the case with OEM brakes). My opinion is that this is a very wise setup, not \"ricey\", very effective and a top value for money .
I went to the dyno today and ended up with some pretty good #'s 321HP 304TQ Car was ran on SPS3 settings boost 9 timing 9 with Sunoco gt100 fuel. Temperature was mid 70's My car: 2003 A4 1.8t quattro ATP/Revo GTRS ATP Manifold Ecode Front Mount Intercooler Ecode Test Pipe Neuspeed Xtreme Turbo intake pipe Neuspeed Exhaust Stock airbox with K&N panel filter stock N75 valve working And NGK BKR7E plugs South Bend OFE SS clutch I could have done better if I had the right plugs (Bosch 3 electrode) and a manual boost controller but im pretty happy overall. Also the car was pulling 0 correction factors all the way through the rpm range so Lemmiwinks could have helped me with some more timing.
I just did the switch to a K&N filter recently on mine. Did not notice any difference. I remember feeling a greater difference in my VR6. Maybe its the fact one is N/A and the other F/I.
Not true. The maintenance schedule for the belt is 105,000 miles. Many of the pumps with plastic impellers fail before that. The plastic composite seems to age and become brittle after 70k or 80k miles--some sooner and some later. But they do fail. This is what happens:
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