I changed the glow plugs on my 2001 A6 and I'm fairly sure they have never been done.
I was in a position where I didn't need to use it for weeks so I just took my time with it - soak them up with WD40 for days at a time and slowly loosen them up. Didn't break any but I had to have patience to leave them overnight to soak when they were feeling tight.
I used to only run Castrol Edge or Mobil 1 in both my 5.2 and 3.0T. the 3.0T didn't seem to care what it ran, but the 5.2 would burn off both of those at a rate of roughly 1200 miles per quart. After having to do a yearly(25k mile) intake pull to clean the valves/intake, I switched to Liqui moly Leichtlauf for the 5.2 and Molygen for the 3.0T. 5w40 regardless of which oil or engine.
as before, the 3.0T doesn't seem to care other than a slightly reduced amount of magnetic schmoo on the magnetic drain plug. So, better, but not a significant difference.
The 5.2 has pushed the oil consumption into the 2000 mile per quart range, the valves only had maybe 1/3 of the buildup as before and I'm no longer pushing small amounts of oil into the spark plug wells. So, undeniably better for me. Magnetic drain plug looks better here as well too.
I use liqui moly but I have my doubts about whether it actually is *the best* oil. I'm sure it's good, but any oil that meets the spec called out in your owners manual is "good". I place more weight on the filter than anything else. Hengst for me, get that Fram shit outta here.
Continental PureContact LS. Also have them on my A3 Etron. The tires were less expensive and have much better grip and handling. They also are quieter and longer lasting.
My dad has a 2021 SQ5, and after an aftermarket windshield caused random issues with advanced safety features like ACC or Audi Pre-sense, we got an OEM Audi windshield and no more issues.
The stock pads that came on my RS3 were god awful for brake dust. After 2 days of normal highway driving they looked like crap. They also hit the wear sensor after only 15k miles which is bananas for a mostly highway driven car. I bought a set with a new pair of 2 piece rotors and the difference is night and day. Braking is much stronger and zero fade even in more demanding conditions (the two piece rotors obviously help with that) I’ve had them on for 25k miles and they have very little wear on them. I’d definitely buy them again. That said, be warned that for like 500-1000 miles after they are installed, your wheels will be the dustiest you’ve ever seen. Once that wears off, they run very clean.
RE71r - on all four corners of my S6. Really sticky and ride well.
Since starting my drive from NY to NJ daily, ALL my previous cars, Audi Q5 and Toyota Sienna, will start "brake and shake" or was it "shake and brake".. at about a year in at around 10k-15k miles. I am guilty of heavy braking so with it comes excess wear.
Audi really dropped the ball on building such a poor performing alternator!
Carbon build up is definitely still an issue on diesel engines. In the case of the 3.0tdi being discussed here replacing the intake manifold is essentially the fix depending on how severe it is and that will run about 1k between parts and labor. Here's just the intake snout and swirl flaps from one with moderate carbon build up. These can obviously both be cleaned, but the manifold is extremely difficult to get fully clean and replacing it is for sure the easier method.
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