OEM ceramic brake pads can last 60k to 90k miles.. But they're not that expensive if you change them yourself. Very easy on Mazda, best changed at about 50k miles of normal driving, before they wear too much more, to keep quality OEM rotors for longer.
No, but I did keep 2 quarts of oil and a gallon jug of water. My Mazda Protege was notorious for burning oil and overheating
Buy Castrol Edge engine oil for your Mazda 2.5, but do get the Mazda transmission oil.
I just changed my rotors and pads myself on my 23 mazda 3, cost me $224 for 4 Bosch rotors and all new Bosch pads.
I had a 82 Mazda rx7 that I put a Chevy 350 into, and let me tell ya.... The oil pan was one part that needed some "adjustments" to clear the center/drag link for the steering. I set it on the ground in my shop and beat it till the flanges weren't square anymore. When I went to install it, I used gray rtv, had to squeeze the sides to make the bolts line up. It didn't leak a drop tho, and it cleared the steering!!
Last December, the OEM battery died and I replaced it with a new Duralast battery from AutoZone. Fast forward to today, the car wouldn’t start at all. Had to jump it just to get it running and drove straight to AutoZone to get it tested.
There are little to no performance gains from adding a "performance" filter to a Mazda3. The benefit of K&N, imo, is cost saving due to reusability.
Man I hit a rock in my ‘21 Mazda 3. Damaged the oil pan, differential, catalytic converter (secondary), mufflers, and engine cradle. $10k+ repair
I\u2019ve had a CX-30 for almost two years. I love the car, but I wouldn\u2019t get another Mazda after this. Nothing but trouble, sadly. On average, I\u2019ve had to go to the dealership every three months for different issues. Next week I\u2019m getting a headlight replaced, and it would cost $1\u20132k if it weren\u2019t under warranty.
I have a CX-50. Love the car, but damn, the rattles drive me crazy. Doesn\u2019t scream quality when the steering column has a terrible rattle inside of it
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