I've had RedBox's before on my VR6 (actually still on it right now, have to fix that!) and I've managed to make them fade with HARD street use. Albeit it was a really spirited drive through the country, but they started to go after some very high to low speed decels. I would NOT attempt to take these pads to a track day, they would vaporize. I know a few people that tried to use them with not so good results. It's a nice pad for mild street use, but you probably want something beefier. I've heard alot of good things about the EBC Green pads as well as the Hawks. I have the Hawks to go onto my Rabbit shortly, and have heard nothing but rave reviews for them. If they work out well on that, they'll make it to the VR6. As for fluid, anything DOT4 should work well, and I've never had a problem with the ATE superblue. I'm using the Castrol brakefluid in my Rabbit because my uncle (and alot of guys in Porsche club) swear by it. It's easier to find so I'm giving that a shot as well. Pedal feel is determined mostly by how well you bleed the brakes, other than a caliper change. So, it's going to be the same as now, unless you switch to a 4pot caliper.
Reviews of spare parts for Volkswagen
Our stock brakes on our 88 16v gti (ita class) used bone stock rotors, ford high performance brake fluid, performance friction pads ( no longer available, but hawk blues worked almost as well ) and a nice cheap duct to the center of the hub to force air into the center of the rotor. We went several seasons with the same rotors and shuffled pads for long life. We also made a spacer out of aluminum to go between the pad and the caliper to help dissipate heat better as well. In 2000 we set 7 track lap records so the car isn't slow. Our motto for racing isn't how much you spend, but what you spend it on. good luck! dave...... p.s. for what it's worth, we sold the ita car and are building a g-production rabbit using wilwoods because they are legal in the class and we got into them for a good price. The key in that purchase was weight.
A good starting point would be Sport Springs (Neuspeed Sport, H&R Sport) with Bilstein or Koni Adjustable shocks. The shocks will be the most expensive, but remember that they'll outlast the originals!
I change every 5,000 with Amsoil in my TDI. I like to change oil and keep tabs on everything under the car, so it's worth it to me.
For highway driving on a vr6, oil should be changed every 5k. City driving is 3k. BTW, go for 5w30 Mobil 1 Tri-synthetic. NICE!
Used Bosh on my jeep, nothing but AWESOME!
I've had a K&N drop in in my 99 1.8t since new, and I now have 70,000 miles on it. I've not had any problems with the MAF or anything else like that.
I had Ferodo pads on an earlier VW and really liked them. Now I have Mintex on this car and they are have better feel than the stock pads and make MUCH less dust.
We also had a K&N filter in the car and the Mass Air Flow sensor failed about 14,000 miles later. The dealer did replace the MAF under warranty and did not suggest the failure was caused by the K&N.
I installed per instructions a K&N air filter to my 2000 VW Passat. Upon Driving the first 3 hours after installation my check engine light illuminated and a warning message appeared on my trip computer stating "Emissions Workshop!" VW stated that the error was a result of a faulty air mass sensor. It was determined by VW that Oil from the K&N filter had fouled the sensor and the sensor could not be cleaned. I now wish that I had not installed your product at all, because now at this point I am screwed. I am also out $579.41 for less than 3 hours of use of your product.
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