I was chasing down a P0352 CEL. I moved the #2 COIL to the #1 cylinder and the CEL followed the coil (P0351). I ordered the first Denso Coil from Amazon ($53), knowing there could be a possibility of a fake/counterfeit. CEL disappeared.
I'd recommend Only the denso coils. I got a denso and that's lasted about a year so far.
Denso OSGR Light Duty starters are very common so parts are easy and any local auto electric rebuilder has seen heaps of them. They may have parts to fix it on the spot. I order a primary gasket/seal kit online because swapping one is a primary cover R&I, and one muliple pack of starter motor to engine case gaskets since they're so inexpensive. If the starter concerned lacks an aftermarket pushbutton end cover I order those for every bike I buy.
First thing I do is remove the three screws holding the solenoid end cover to inspect the contacts which are cheap online. Kits with all the seals and plunger are about 30 bucks shipped so I replace them every starter removal o avoid buying more primary cover gaskets. Then (bike in neutral!) I bottom the exposed plunger manually. If starter rotates but engine does not it's starter clutch time. If engine starts I drill a ~1/4" hole centered on the end cover then reinstall it so I can ride until I sort the parts situation by usung a round shank screwdriver to push the plunger and start the engine. If putting battery voltage to the small blade connector which controls the solenoid does nothing the solenoid windings would likely be open. Those can be replaced from a donor but don't fail often. If I replace a starter I fix the original as backup.
All Balls starter clutches are decent though I don't know the OEM for the or HD. HD outsources starters but dealers stock them and parts.
Denso coils are good for another 150,000 miles
I got toyota denso brand from rockauto site for $255 with shipping included
The spark plug on the right is 10000% original because it's still working even though it's over 5 years old and has more than 87,000 km on it. The new ones show a little over 5 kilo-ohms, which matches Denso's specification. The old ones show a bit over 3.5 kilo-ohms due to wear.
NGK/Denso are good plugs for my car I used IK20 Denso plugs as they are iridium plugs which is what you want as they last much longer and are better quality
My 2010 came with denso, replaced them with ngk at 100k, then at 200k replaced them with denso…not sure if it made a difference
I (attempted to) refurbish my old civic's AC system by installing a new denso compressor, condenser/drier, and the line that had leaked from rockauto. It passed an overnight vacuum test with flying colors, and to get a second set of eyes on my work (and pay back a local mechanic who helped me figure out where the leak was for free) I took it to a shop to get the freon charged. Passed the shop's vacuum test as well and they recharged the system - but the new compresser's clutch would not engage. He found that as soon as the compressor attempted to engage, it would blow the fuse. He said my new compressor's clutch or coil is defective and that diagnostics are pretty much done - replace the compressor and try again.
Had some Denso plugs in my '15 WRX (unaware to me) and the plug in cylinder 2 was fouled within 7k miles and caused a misfire. Turns out the shop that the previous owner took it to for the 60k-mile plug change decided to cheap out. I now have OEM plugs :D
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