They see plenty of use in europe, another thing where maintenance is key. Haven't seen much as far as gm having issues. Don't think they'd be putting 15 year service intervals if they weren't confident they wouldn't be sued.
C4 TPI Corvettes are not slow, how did that sneak into the mix here? One other thing aside from 40 year old car warranty, the standard 255/50/16 tires are made by pretty much nobody now.
I will always vote for a 10SI or 12SI GM alternator swap on an L-series engine. Affordable conversion bracket. 1-wire GM alternators are simple, reliable, cheap and readily available online but not easy to find in parts stores. 3 wire GM alternators are are easy enough to wire up and are absolutely everywhere in parts stores if you’re more concerned about parts availability and potential breakdowns on long adventures.
My oil changes run about $70 (DexosD 0W-20 Mobil1 ESP X2 and OEM PF66 Filter) I pay about $45 at AutoZone for an OEM Fuel Filter (every 12k) and as the previous mechanic stated, I change my oil every 4k-5k miles. I check the oil level at 2500 miles and usually top off with a half quart.
Change fuel filter every 2-3 oil changes. Just make it a habit and on a schedule.
Battery is dead.
The old GM SUVs have a lot of electrical problems and can run down the battery if not kept charged.
Gm has done this to me with a water pump. Nothing like factory, none of the markings, generic gm sticker. Part looks like the generic China versions on Amazon.
The new GM's will brick too if you don't use the fancy sps login to reset the module when you change pads. It literally will brick the caliper, and you can't fix it, have to replace the whole thing AND you can't reprogram them, they are also vin locked permanently.
£2600 odd was on the manual swap as the auto started playing up, which is common on the GM autos.
Avoid the version with CVT transmission, GM's CVT is not durable.
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