The auto in the NC and ND are far better than the old NA and NB ones.
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I would recommend that if you get one do a full service fluid change on everything. Change the coolant, the trans fluid, diff fluid, oil (10w30 or 10w40, do NOT use the 5w20 reccomended). You'll also want to set aside $80-90 for new spark plugs, and upgrade the coil packs to LS coils from Bennet Built whenever you can. Coils need to be replaced about every 30k miles.
I also swapped the stock tires for A/T tires, mostly for the looks, but they actually helped in sand and rough surfaces.
I personally am changing my own oil with full synthetic on my 23 2.5T every 6000 km or so. No need other than peace of mind for me. Doing it myself only takes 30 minutes and $35 in oil, filter and crush washer.
Changed the pads front and rear was super easy and straight forward.Then after taking the car out of 'electric brake service mode' and starting the car I get the a yellow check engine light and code C05AB, clearing it made no difference. Only thing I could find online was "The electronically controlled brake unit detects that the pressure feed valve (primary side) is stuck ON (OPEN)."
I got a ‘21 CX-9 and found out this model has a valve stem seal issue which causes the vehicle to burn oil around 4K after the oil change. Mazda has service bulletin out for this but I have not noticed my oil level drop so far.
weak glass from my similar experience. I will say I have less bad luck with the 3 Hondas and they get more miles on the same roads.
Our 2022 CX-5 Premium Plus (non turbo) is going in for its 3rd thermostat replacement next week. Each time it’s been replaced at Mazda under warranty with an OEM part. Vehicle will hit 90,000 Miles this month. Does this thermostat wear seem excessive or is it normal for these? Bought brand new and it’s been the only problem, other then general maintenance
Dealer just called and said my head is cracked and will be replaced under warranty.
I did this on my Mazda CX9 (same design), also failed around 90k miles.
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