I ended up buying stoptech all around and they lsst a twice longer and have a better bite for street use.
Pros: last longer, better bite
Owner reviews for brake pads
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I owned a 2018 Model 3 Performance for ~80k miles and now a Lucid Air Touring with over 20k miles. Maintenance wise, I have spent money on a set of tires for the Tesla (let's call that $1500), brake pads and rotors on the Telsa ($600?) and windshield washer fluid. The Lucid has needed nothing over the past 17 months except for a tire patch.
Pros: Lucid needed nothing
Cons: Tesla needed tires, brakes
Mileage: 80000 km
I always use Akebono PROAct pads, and cheapest Centric rotors (changed with pads every time) I stop GREAT.
Pros: stop GREAT
well done vw for letting me get 77k out of the factory pads/rotors
Pros: long lasting, 77k miles
Vehicle:
Volkswagen
Mileage: 123919 km
I stick to oem pads and rotors because they last a very long time.
Pros: last very long time
i went with R1 concept as well as brakes pads. Night and day difference.
Pros: night and day difference, significant improvement
Vehicle:
Toyota
To save you money, they probably did not need to change right rear caliper if only your left one was seized. They also could’ve given you options for prices on brakes and rotors as it appears they quoted you for dealer quality brake pads.
Pros: options for prices
Cons: dealer quality expensive
Vehicle:
Volkswagen Golf
Mileage: 146000 km
I replaced front pads and rotors on my Tiguan, and afterwards, when going between D <-> R and applying the brakes, the first brake application causes a "clack" on both sides at the front. Pads are Bosch 1633A. spring clips (integral to pads) are seated properly. Pads and rotors were bedded properly. Wheel lug bolts torqued properly. I have the official instructions from VW. I've probably done ~20 brake jobs in my life, mostly Volvos (over half of those were sliding-caliper designs like the Tiguan's). What I tried (with no success): searching and searching and searching forums, only found 2 other people with a similar issue on FCP's Brake Replacement YouTube video measured and compared all latereral dimensions of the pad's plate between new and old, same dimensions re-installed the pads all bolts are torqued properly (caliper carrier 200 Nm; caliper pin bolts 35 Nm) found a Tech Bulletin from VW that mentions there are inner- and outer-specific orientation for the pads. This appears to apply only to the Genuine (labeled TRW) pads, as all 3 Bosch pads are identical in every way that I can discern bought a set of Genuine VW pads (labeled VW), ensured the correct orientation of pads according to the Tech Bulletin, and they still clack. pad backing plate dimensions are the same as the Bosch. Ack! More money! bought a set of genuine caliper carriers (with the thinking that perhaps when I wire-wheeled the old caliper carriers to remove rust, it took off too much material). I didn't install them because I measured all the dimensions that interface with the pads and the new are identical to the old.
Pros: pads and rotors bedded properly, bolts torqued properly
Cons: causes a "clack" on both sides
Vehicle:
Volkswagen Tiguan
Part number: 1633A
The OEM brakes are a little meh as I’ve got the same noise issue as a lot of other Atlas owners have experienced.
Cons: noisy OEM brakes
Vehicle:
Volkswagen
I had my brakes replaced in January of this year and the dealership didn't charge me. Within about 4 months they started squealing again. I took it back and they basically told me to pound sand. I shouldn't need a 3rd set of brakes on a car with 30k miles. This has been very disappointing and really soured my opinion of Subaru.
Cons: squealing brakes, disappointing
Vehicle:
Subaru
Mileage: 30000 km
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