Owner reviews for engine oil

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Engine noise

RAVENOL

4.8
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PENNZOIL

5.0
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RED LINE

5.0
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LIQUI MOLY Engine oil

On my 2016 GTI with 211K on it, the only oil used was Liquimoly. From 0 miles to 200K miles it burned a quart every 3500 miles and that never changed at all.

Pros: consistent oil consumption, long-term reliability
Mileage: 339571 km
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AMSOIL Engine oil

Amsoil is worth it and head and shoulders above the competition. I used a custom built testing apparatus to characterize dozens of lubricants including oils of all weights from Mobil 1, Castrol, penzoil, valvoline, and Amsoil.

Pros: worth it, above competition
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Shell Engine oil

Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 in my 09 e90 335d (m57)

Supposedly should be changed every 13k miles but I do 7500 to hopefully help extend the life of the timing chain.

Pros: extended timing chain life
Vehicle: BMW
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Mobil Engine oil
danski0224
Rating 4.0
  • Exhaust smoke:

I had the same issue in my 2016 Sportwagen at ~120k miles, oil changed every 5k. Based upon my web sleuthing, there IS an issue with 2015 and earlier 1.8 engines and oil consumption. Something about a bad ring design. My car was using upwards of 1qt per 800/1000 miles depending on the amount of highway driving. No oil spots on driveway, no blue smoke at startup or any throttle application or not. I DID have a "damp" appearing spot on the bottom inside of the tailpipe and black speckles/dirt on the tailgate. Mechanic told me that the catalytic converter can hide a significant amount of oil use. I tried an oil flush (two) and did not notice an appreciable change, and was quoted upwards of $10k for just an engine. There is a BG flush kit, sold to "professionals only", that is upwards of $250 on the big online retailer site- comes with what looks like 2 gallons of stuff. I did not use this, and the shop I have the work usually performed at refused to do it (I understand their reasons). As a "Hail Mary", I did the following: Parked it on ramps. Pulled the plugs- Number 2 was obviously the problem. You should pull your plugs and look at them. Cut a piece of 1/4" OD copper tubing long enough to get into the cylinder, and put a little bend at the end of it Previously ordered GM "Top Engine Cleaner" and Ballistol (primarily used as a weapon cleaner, but non toxic). Looked into cylinders with a borescope. Yup, #2 was the worst. Liberally sprayed the GM cleaner through the copper line into the cylinders. It foams, so you can hear it fill up. Turned engine over by hand with a socket and ratchet. Sprayed some more. Waited, then sprayed Ballistol in there. Turned engine over by hand. Sprayed some more. Repeated the process a few times a day, for 3 days. Looked into cylinders again and saw carbon removal from top of piston. Before start, sucked out excess fluid from the tops of the cylinders with a Harbor Freight brake bleeder. Installed new plugs. Drained oil where it sat. Installed new oil and filter, plus BG oil flush, ran at idle for 30 minutes (warm-up, plus 15 minutes). Changed oil and filter again, using Mobil 5W40 Euro oil. Problem appeared worse after checking oil after ~250 miles of highway driving. Was not happy. Waited it out (nothing to lose), and saw oil consumption decrease over time. Added about 1.5 qt in total over 3k miles. Changed the oil again, and have almost no change on the dipstick after 1k miles. So, I got lucky, and the problem is fixed. I have not taken the time to pull #2 plug and look again at it or the piston top, but in any event, oil consumption is WAY down. No more "damp" tailpipe and if there is black fuzz on the tailgate, it is much finer and harder to see. I am also using Top Tier fuel and have added a couple of cans of Gumout cleaner with PEA. I have noticed a significant improvement in idle quality with these things. Not sure if I will go to 3k oil changes, as obviously 5k was not working. I do NOT idle the car much at all outside of driving/traffic (no sitting with the car running needlessly).

Pros: oil consumption decreased
Cons: problem appeared worse
Vehicle: Volkswagen
Mileage: 193121 km
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