LiquiMoly is fine. I used 0w40 Mobil 1 as I do in every single one of my cars for the last decade and it’s absolutely fine.
Pros: absolutely fine
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I have used LiquiMoly ever since I put the new motor in and it’s been wonderful
Pros: been wonderful
Liquimoly molygen for the win.
Pros: good performance
Vehicle:
Subaru Forester
Not sure if my opinion matters, but I use the Toyota version of the Mobil1 0W-16. Runs great.
Pros: runs great
Vehicle:
Toyota Camry
Use an oil designed for a wet clutch, like this [motorex 15w50]
Pros: designed for wet clutch
I've used it in my 460 for 3 oil changes now. The oil stays cleaner longer and keeps the engine running smoother than Mobil1. I can go 7500 miles between changes and the oil still looks new.
Pros: oil stays cleaner longer
Mileage: 12070 km
On the other side, cheaper oil and very good spec. overall i see in Total Ineo Long Life Xtra 0W20 in VW 509 specification area, which is also written in my service book for high efficiency oils.
Pros: cheaper oil, very good spec
Vehicle:
Skoda Octavia
I just switched to Valvoline EP 0w20 after using Mobile 1 all my life, for a very important reason...
...the easy to open top with a built in pour spout. So good.
Pros: easy to open top
Vehicle:
Honda Civic
Using Castrol EDGE Euro 5W-40 after watching a EN owner on YouTube suggested it. Car runs great in this 110 plus days in Texas
Pros: car runs great
Vehicle:
Hyundai
I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.
Pros: works fine for 300-400 bhp
Cons: lost main bearing, sludge until warmed
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