For shits and giggles I switched to ENEOS 5w30 synthetic in my 2 current vehicles and now I'm able to go 5,000 miles between oil changes and while some oil is still consumed, it stays above the "add" line on the dipstick without adding oil between oil changes.
I bought a new air filter for carb. I reinstalled the front engine pan. I did an oil change. VW specialist recommended I go to Kendall 20w50 to fix the oil light at idle.
I've been running rotella t6 4w40 in my 81 cb750c for the past 15 years. I also use it in every other bike I own or have serviced and my 4 wheeled vehicles.
These luxury oil makes the shift gears smooth, this is noticeable. Engine running so light
I use Rotella T6 5w40 in all my vehiciles. It's a quality oil that works well for everything I own from mechanical turbo diesel to motorcycles to big blocks.
I've always put Honda GN4 in mine and whatever recommended weight stated in your manual :)
If I could change the oil myself I would do it every 5k using the cheapest 507.00 spec oil I can find. But I can’t so I do it every 10k and use Mobil1 ESP.
I'm doing mine a little more frequently now at 280,000km. I do every 7,500km with liquimoly molygen.
Well if you ride a dirtbike i might not reccomend it i use motul 7100 10w50 i belive it isnt rly expensive and its a good oil most of the local racers use it including me.
Well, just got back the test results on for our oil analysis, here are the comments: " Nothing showed up in this sample that's too much of a surprise, though aluminum and copper are perhaps a little higher than expected. New parts wearing in tend to leave a lot of metal in the oil and that's what we suspect is going on here. You ran this oil pretty long for factory oil (we realize you were probably only following the oil life monitor). So that's why aluminum and copper are on the high side. No matter--everything should improve now that you've changed this fill. The TBN read 1.9, getting low but still okay. Potassium is from the EGR system. "
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