Just had my car use the tsb so the starter replaced and torque converter moved one bolt. Hopefully this does permanently fix the issue.
I had the same issue with my 2016 V6 Touring. I followed the instructions on the TSB, replaced the starter with a Duralast Gold starter from Autozone ($400), & replaced the alternator (OEM) at the dealership. No issues at all. It has been over a year and a half.
I replaced on my 2016 with a brand new Bosch. In 2019. Still going strong
I have the Bosch Starter for my 3.0, my last replacement from autozone that was 200+ didn’t even last 2 years, Bosch still going strong and I have cheap duratrash as a backup in my tool chest but it’s been collecting dust!!
I bought the TYC. For my ranger and mustang. No issues at all. One is a daily driver.
I've gotten in the habit of installing the smaller, lighter, more powerful DL9990S in all of my older small block trucks that use the big heavy 3510 series starters. Never once had an issue with them.
I got the Duralst Alternator, so far so good but I also got the Duralast starter. It has a lifetime warranty. The starter lasted me almost 10k miles.
The last aftermarket starter I bought for a Honda Grenaded itself after a month.
Then I figured that it might actually be compression so switched the starter motor to a much more powerful one to maybe postpone this cars death. It went from cranking at 250 rpm to cranking at 350 rpm\n\nGuess what? This also did absolutely nothing.
Multiple times yesterday the vehicle was sputtering while trying to start, all electronics in the vehicle were on, but the engine was between .3K - .5K Rpm\u2019s trying to start for at least 5 seconds. Then there was an intermittent phase where it went to around .7K but wasn\u2019t fully on, and once it turned on it went to around 1.2K. This progressively became more frequent over the course of a few months, with it first happening in a one off scenario a few months ago.
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