Owner reviews for starter motor

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Duralast Starter motor
URIO714
Rating 5.0
  • Cranking:

I had the same issue with my 2016 V6 Touring. I followed the instructions on the TSB, replaced the starter with a Duralast Gold starter from Autozone ($400), & replaced the alternator (OEM) at the dealership. No issues at all. It has been over a year and a half.

Pros: no issues at all
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Bosch Starter motor
Neither_Minimum_5203
Rating 5.0
  • Cranking:
  • Multiple attempts:

I have the Bosch Starter for my 3.0, my last replacement from autozone that was 200+ didn’t even last 2 years, Bosch still going strong and I have cheap duratrash as a backup in my tool chest but it’s been collecting dust!!

Pros: long-lasting, reliable
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TYC Starter motor
DTH_245
Rating 5.0
  • Cranking:
  • Sounds:
  • Multiple attempts:

I bought the TYC. For my ranger and mustang. No issues at all. One is a daily driver.

Pros: reliable performance
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Duralast Starter motor
Sierra72
Rating 5.0
  • Cranking:

I've gotten in the habit of installing the smaller, lighter, more powerful DL9990S in all of my older small block trucks that use the big heavy 3510 series starters. Never once had an issue with them.

Pros: smaller, lighter, more powerful, no issues
Part number: DL9990S
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Duralast Starter motor
revopine
Rating 3.0
  • Cranking:

I got the Duralst Alternator, so far so good but I also got the Duralast starter. It has a lifetime warranty. The starter lasted me almost 10k miles.

Pros: lifetime warranty
Cons: starter lasted 10k miles
Mileage: 10000 km
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OEM Mazda Starter motor

Then I figured that it might actually be compression so switched the starter motor to a much more powerful one to maybe postpone this cars death. It went from cranking at 250 rpm to cranking at 350 rpm\n\nGuess what? This also did absolutely nothing.

Pros: more powerful starter motor
Cons: did absolutely nothing
Vehicle: Mazda
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OEM KIA Starter motor
Competitive_War_5374
Rating 2.0
  • Cranking:
  • Multiple attempts:

Multiple times yesterday the vehicle was sputtering while trying to start, all electronics in the vehicle were on, but the engine was between .3K - .5K Rpm\u2019s trying to start for at least 5 seconds. Then there was an intermittent phase where it went to around .7K but wasn\u2019t fully on, and once it turned on it went to around 1.2K. This progressively became more frequent over the course of a few months, with it first happening in a one off scenario a few months ago.

Pros: electronics were on
Cons: sputtering while trying to start
Vehicle: Kia
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