I've got the flickering lights so I'm going between the Denso reman and Bosch reman. Looks like the Bosch reman is done in house and the germans have pretty good engineering imo.
Denso alternator for the 1.8L
That’s the OEM alternator without the Honda label on it.
I recently replaced my alternator on one car w/a new Bosch unit. Cost about $200 and took me a couple of hours. Dealer cost just for the part was $700 and with book time they priced it out at over $1,400.
Bosch Alternators have 2 posts on them, the big one is for main battery ground, the smaller one is for the exciter or blue wire. When the cars ignition switch is turned on, the Dash light (led and diode) applies 12V+ to the coils to excite them, so the alternator can produce a charge. When the Alternator is producing current and voltage it goes to 13.5-14Volts.
Denso reman from rock auto, youtube the job. Plan for up to 4 hours if you're a first timer.
I recently replaced the alternator on my 99 1MZ Solara (really just a 2 door "sporty" Camry), I went to an alternator/starter rebuild shop and swapped my 24-year old alternator for one they had in stock they'd rebuilt with a Denso core.
Beware of cheap aftermarket junk. I would only get an OEM or denso alternator.
Or since Denso is the OEM, you could get a remanufactured one at [NAPA](https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DEN2105000) or [RockAuto](https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/denso,2105000,alternator+/+generator,2412), but it looks like they're out of stock. I would not trust the cheaper remanufactured ones that are made by the other brands. Denso is reliable, and I'd trust their reman parts, if you decide to go the reman route.
Im having the same issue with my 08 jetta 2.5, replaced the alternator and voltage regulator because the car battery wasnt charging anymore. Anyways replaced the alternator and then I had a high voltage issue with the regulator
I when my original alternator failed in my 540i/6, the replacement rebuilt Bosch unit would produce 13.5-13.7v for a while after the car had warmed up, then would gradually fall to less than battery voltage. Running the A/C and revving the engine at stoplights would keep the battery light from flickering, but eventually, it would show full symptoms of a dead charging system.
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